Boutiques, Event, Parfums, Press
Press
THE FASHIONGTON POST, USA
The Fashiongton Post is a legendary fashion magazine that started it all. Here you will find exclusive interviews with high fashion insiders, beauty & hairstyle trends, model’s diary, photography and illustration works from the world known artists, clothing trends and information on what-to-wear, biographies of noted people in the fashion world.
WISH MAGAZINE, AUSTRALIA
Iris Cendré, Review, Press, Perfume, magazine
HIGHSNOBIETY, USA
I ESCAPE ‘POUR HOMME’ HELL & BROUGHT YOU BACK THESE PERFUMES. Article by Thom Bettridge
IRIS CENDRÉ
Powdery flowers is a scent profile that we’ve been trained to associate with granny perfumes, but in order to free oneself from the shackles of the pour homme universe, one must go there and one must commit. Luckily for the flower-curious, perfumers like Naomi Goodsir are making iris- and violet-led perfumes that turn up with hits of tobacco and a smokiness that is reminiscent of a mouthful of peaty scotch.
From the desk of Highsnobiety Editor-in-Chief Thom Bettridge, The Materialist is an editor’s letter in the form of a treasure hunt. Its mission: to look closer at the products that fascinate us as a way to better understand ourselves and our world — or just to find better stuff. For this special FRONTPAGE edition, we're taking a deep dive into fragrances.
For decades, the world of marketing has accidentally conspired to turn young men off of fragrance.
As a child of the Y2K era, I was introduced to the concept of cologne through the frosted blue abs of Jean Paul Gaultier’s bottle for Le Male. Furthermore, my eardrums will forever be stained by the voice of a phone sex operator moaning “Look at that bod” over a popular and oft-maligned 15-second ad for a product called Bod Man Body Spray. And sometime during my elementary school career, a demented soul invented a thing called Axe. (An aside, but shout out to Axe for disowning whoever took their body spray with them into the US Capitol raid.)
Flash forward to 2021, and cultural evolution in men’s fragrance space has been minimal to nonexistent. Johnny Depp and Dior’s quest to make the most racist commercial of all time might be behind us, but even the luxury end of the pour homme world still seems made for a spectrum of humanity that starts with James Bond and ends with Pauly D. Aftershave. Muscles. Warfare. Suits. Barbershops. Dark blue packaging. The mental universe of cologne marketing embodies everything tragic and obsolete about being a man.
I needed to get introduced to perfume — in particular, the lively and unisex scene of niche perfumers — in order to truly understand the magic of fragrance. With the help of olfactory aesthetes in my life, I learned the joys of reeking like a fist full of jasmine. I embraced traces of roses and oud and peppercorns and the other mysterious aromas that ran around corners in my mind as I tried to identify them. And I walked to bodegas smelling like rare species of tree.
During quarantine, I set off down a deeper and more spiraling rabbit hole, sniffing and wear-testing the nearly 200 perfumes that went into the making of this review. Cloistered in my home office, searching for base notes in my mind’s eye, it came into focus that perfume is not inherently social. To smell good around others is a worthwhile endeavor, but the real fun of fragrance comes with using it as a form of mental travel, to the kinds of faraway places, people, and memories that are uniquely evoked by the olfactory senses.
So, without further ado, here are the finest fruits of my voyage, arranged across the traditional scent-wheel categories of Green, Woody, Spicy-slash-Amber, and Floral.
Avalaible in the US from LUCKYSCENT
Art, design, Fashion, inspiration, magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Press
SINDROMS JOURNAL - SHADES OF GREEN
Sindroms is a journal of monochrome states of mind, published in print biannually. Curating its content based on specific colours, it investigates them across culture and immerses its readers in the feelings and moods evoked by each colour.
Nuit de Bakélite by perfumer Isabelle Doyen is happy to be part of this evergreen sindrom - Design by Studio Goodsir. Photo by Jean-Michel Sordello
IRIS CENDRÉ, BEAUTÉ GOTHIQUE
A very interesting critique, by Olivier David for Au Parfum, about Iris in general and more particularly Iris Cendré by Julien Rasquinet.
magazine, Parfums, Press, Review
STYLEZEITGEIST MAGAZINE - GIVE GOOD GIFT 2018
Art, Fashion, inspiration, Press
UNE PIÈCE DE CRÉATEUR, STUDIO MADE
A new take on an emblematic ‘pièce de mode’, a cape by Naomi Goodsir for Amanda Harlech & Tim Walker (Vogue Italia Sept.issue 2018). Hand Stitched iridescent green elytra (in black it works as well).
Photos by Mr R.
Art, Fashion, inspiration, Press
VOGUE SEPTEMBER ISSUE, ITALY
SOMETIMES, LIFE GIVES YOU A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO CREATE A CUSTOM MADE PIECE FOR SOME INCREDIBLY TALENTED ARTISTS IE: TIM WALKER (PHOTOGRAPHER) & AMANDA HARLECH (STYLIST). NOT EVEN A HAT, BUT A CAPE STITCHED WITH BEETLE WINGS. THANK YOU TIM & AMANDA- BEAUTIFUL!
Parfums, Press, Event, Art, Book
A SCENTED WORLD BY CLAIRE BINGHAM
" This extensive volume delves into the world of fragrances - the iconic brands and the creative minds behind the most fabulous perfumes. Fascinating interviews with perfumers reveal their inspiration and explore topics such as signature scents. Try to describe a smell without thinking back to a place and time and it's impossible not o have all five senses come into play. Scent is immersed in our lives. It conjures up memories of travels and temperatures, feelings about people and things. Fragrance transports you and can make your heart skip a beat" .
A Scented World by author and design journalist Claire Bingham, we step inside the cradle of haute parfumerie and meet the talented aesthetes of the industry who are creating the most soothing and tantalizing scents for our olfactory receptors. Where does the future of fragrance lie? How does the creation of a new scent begin? How do you capture the essence of a moment and release it upon a person's skin? Combining art and science, a perfumer's philosophy is built on a passion for naturals and intuition. These fragrance heroes have the talent to take something every day and with a unique blend of ingredients, craft it into something exquisite. This book steps into the lives of the modern perfume elite and explores the environments where the magic takes place.
About the author - Claire Bingham is an interiors journalist who writes about design, travel, and style for several publications worldwide. Before becoming an author, including the teNeues books Modern Living and A beautiful Mess, she was the Home Editor for Elle Decoration U.K. and her insightful work has been featured in international glossies, including Vogue Living and Architectural Digest. Scouring the globe for inspiring interiors and discovering the talents behind the scenes, she ultimately writes about homes full of character-be it modern-day glamour or old world, disheveled charm.
Published by www.teneues.com
Special thanks to Claire Bingham, Chris Tubbs & Olivier Maure from Art et parfum
SWITCH MAGAZINE, ITALY
IN GOOD COMPANY, FIFI AWARDS FRANCE 2018
Experts Award : Iris Céladon (Armani Privé), Concrète (Comme des Garçons), 2015 Le Phénix (Les Bains Guerbois), Nuit de Bakélite (Naomi Goodsir Parfums). Source : www.parfumista.net
Press, News, Parfumeur, Parfums
STYLIST MAGAZINE, France
" VOTRE BENCH - JANE CAMPION. Parce que le doigt d'Harvey Keitel dans le trou du bas noir d'Holly Hunter dans la Leçon de piano, c'était érotique à vous faire lacérer tout l'inventaire du rayon Wolford. Parce que dans sa série Top of the Lake, ses gonzesses dézinguées par le patriarcat se rebiffent. Parce que Jane Campion n'a jamais flanché dans sa mise à vif des chairs et des âmes féminines, on lui cueille une fleur fatale mise à nu. Tubéreuse décapitée avant d'avoir fait tourner la tête aux vierges, plutôt suc que corolle, à la limite du caoutchouc, cette insomniaque Nuit de Bakélite est l'antithèse des tubéreuses-divas comme Fracas our Carnal Flower. Conçue par des femmes nées comme Jane Campion aux antipodes - la créatrice Naomi Goodsir en Australie, la parfumeuse Isabelle Doyen à Tahiti - Nuit de Bakélite a la beauté crue de celles qui ne veulent plus faire semblant pour plaire. Et ça, c'est ce qu'on peut imaginer de plus dench". Article by Denyse Beaulieu for Stylist Magazine, February 2018.
NEW YORK TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE, Spain
MY FAVORITE 2017 FRAGRANCES by Lionel Paillès
NUIT DE BAKELITE by Isabelle Doyen.
BEST OF 2017 by Colognoisseur
The Top 5 (Perfume of the Year Candidates) by Mark Benhke.
Including ...
"Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite - The creative direction of Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier matched with the vistuosity of perfumer Isabelle Doyen provided the best tuberose of 2017. Their choice to focus on the green stemmy quality by editing out the flower they found something within which reinvents tuberose".
THE 10 DENCHEST SCENTS OF 2017 by Denyse Beaulieu
"I did find out about a fragrance whose name is my new motto: Stay Dench “Dench” being a synonym for “sick” (which means “nice” in English slang), “used for saying that someone or something is extremely attractive, fashionable, impressive, etc.” according to the Macmillan online dictionary. Launched by grime star Lethal Bizzle, the word springs directly from Judi Dench’s unimpeachable badassery. It is now the name of a brand and a fragrance (if you’ve smelled it, please report) for which Dame Judith teamed up with Lethal Bizzle for a first lesson in rap. So I’ll just leave this here before moving on to my favorite launches of 2017".
"So, what made my nose go "Pow!" in 2017?"
"Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir nips tuberose's criminal intentions right in the bud, turning niche's fetish flower into a venomous stem oozing Day-glo sap. One of the year's most striking olfactory signatures" - Denyse Beaulieu.
Parfums, Parfumeur, Press, Review
THE BEST OF SCENT 2017, by Cafleurebon.
Best perfume :
"Nuit de Bakélite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- in a year of many mediocre tuberoses, safe and screechy for the most part, Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and the magnificent Isabelle Doyen created a tuberose very different than any I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Nuit de Bakélite is a DARING perfume and unlike any tuberose I have smelled in a few years". - Michelyn Camen
Best Creative Director:
"Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier for Nuit de Bakélite. I really loved the obsessive interpretation of Tuberose Naomi and Renaud steered with Isabelle Doyen. I also like the connection with Louise Bourgeois and the total white Insomnia project". - Ermano Picco
THE JOULE, Dallas
An online publication by The Joule Dallas. Thank you Shasa for sharing your autumn top picks, including Nuit de Bakélite available at Forty Five Ten in Dallas. http://fortyfiveten.com/
DIVA MAGAZINE, Croatia
November 2017 issue. Article by Ivo Parac featuring Nuit de Bakélite.
