This summer, we had the chance to spend time at Château de Pont-Rilly, in Normandy, France.
The chateau de Pont-Rilly is situated at the end of a magnificent mile long paved avenue. Designed in 1765, by the architect Pierre-Raphaël de Lozon for the Marquis dʼOurville, it is one of the most impressive stately homes in Normandy. The extensive lawns on which donkeys & sheep graze are divided by small canals providing an ideal space for numerous black swans & ducks. Peacocks roam in the gardens where attractive mixed borders blend into the surrounding greenery. The interior of the chateau has remained unchanged since the 18th century : Versailles parquet, exquisite wooden panelling & rare marble fireplaces, in each room, are the perfect setting for antique furniture.
COOL TM was created as an independent, daring, resolutely modern and subversive field of expression, in the image of a world in search of meaning and ethics.
Each piece is a tribute, the desire to transcribe the emotion that transports us when we think of free personalities. Question the beautiful, the genre, the normal, the bizarre, the extravagant, COOL TM is a refuge for those who dare colors, overlays, shiny and truthful pieces.
COOL TM was meant to evoke a jovial and happy debauchery as a celebration of life. An ode to radical, raw and assumed freedom, with rebellious and lascivious silhouettes where men are sensitive, women are strong and free. We are all equal.
Merging rebellion and romance, punk and bohemia, vintage and avant-garde, COOL TM’s message is modern,subversive, and yet universal. Blurring gender lines and staunchly promoting diversity the brand holds up a mirror to a society undergoing major changes.
Thank you to NOSE PARIS & COOL T.M to have associated Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir to the event at Galerie Vivienne on June 23rd , 2021 in Paris, according to Spring/Summer 2022 catwalk.
Loin d’être une simple liste, cet ouvrage de référence propose une véritable histoire des parfums, à travers 130 ans de créations.
Jeanne Doré et le collectif Nez ont voulu mettre en lumière les 111 parfums qui comptent, qu’ils soient chefs de file, célébrés ou méconnus, best-sellers ou disparus. Cette nouvelle édition consacre un chapitre aux parfums disparus tout en présentant de nouvelles créations lancées depuis 2017.
De Jicky (1889) à Nuit de Bakélite (2017), cette sélection aussi subjective que passionnée est classée en 7 périodes marquant les grandes transformations de l’industrie. Les textes, sensibles, curieux et didactiques, s’adressent aux experts comme aux profanes, aux jeunes amateurs comme aux grands connaisseurs. Les Cent onze parfums qu’il faut sentir avant de mourir contribue indiscutablement à l’émergence — tant attendue — d’une culture olfactive exigeante et accessible, indispensable pour mieux sentir et ressentir le monde qui nous entoure.
1880 – 1939 : L’âge d’or de la parfumerie moderne L’apparition de la synthèse chimique dans les formules des parfumeurs bouleverse leur manière de travailler. Les créations sont alors plus abstraites et artistiques, et parmi elles demeurent des grands chefs d’œuvre comme Jicky, Tabac blond, N°5, Joy…
1940 – 1969 : Des couturiers aux hippies Entre l’essor des couturiers parfumeurs à partir des années 40 et la vague de fraicheur à la fin des années 60, cette période riche en évolution voit naître de grands succès tels que Femme, Miss Dior, L’Air du temps, Eau sauvage…
1970 – 1979 : Un vent de liberté La publicité prend plus de place et les parfums de marques de prêt-à-porter font leur apparition. N°19, Rive gauche, Opium, Mûre et Musc, Eau d’orange verte illustrent la diversité olfactive de cette décennie.
1980 – 1989 : Le règne du marketing Les compositions se font plus puissantes et exubérantes, jouant sur la transgression et l’opulence, à l’image de Poison, Loulou ou Obsession, tandis que la masculinité s’affirme, à l’instar de Kouros ou Bel ami.
1990 – 1999 : Une parfumerie de fin de siècle Le marché de la parfumerie s’internationalise, de nouvelles tendances olfactives s’imposent, entre fraîcheur purifiante et douceur régressive. L’Eau d’Issey, Angel, Trésor, Le Mâle incarnent la dernière décennie du XXe siècle.
2000 – 2009 : L’éveil de la niche Alors que les lancements se multiplient, émerge une nouvelle parfumerie indépendante et innovante appelée « la niche ». Flower by Kenzo, For Her, Bois d’argent, Carnal Flower ou encore Terre d’Hermès ont marqué cette période.
2010 – aujourd’hui : Mutations en marche Tandis que la niche poursuit son essor et intéresse les grands groupes du luxe, les parfums deviennent plus calibrés, stéréotypés, mais de belles créations tirent leur épingle du jeu : Portrait of a Lady, La Panthère, Misia, Cuir d’ange, Nuit de Bakélite…
Nouveau chapitre : Les parfums qu’il aurait fallu sentir avant qu’ils meurent.
Sindroms is a journal of monochrome states of mind, published in print biannually. Curating its content based on specific colours, it investigates them across culture and immerses its readers in the feelings and moods evoked by each colour.
Nuit de Bakélite by perfumer Isabelle Doyen is happy to be part of this evergreen sindrom - Design by Studio Goodsir. Photo by Jean-Michel Sordello
VOGUE US, August 2020 issue. Cover by photographer Annie Leibovitz, model Simone Biles.
Crown flutters with butterflies, a handmade piece designed for the shoot by Naomi Goodsir &commissioned by the great Amanda Harlech (Fashion Editor/Stylist). Photographer Autumn de Wilde who is also the Director of EMMA, a movie adapted from Jane Austen’s novel. Actress Tanya Reynolds is wearing the crown.
An exhibition curated by MUDAC Lausanne. “The Bird Hat” & “The Bones”, two pieces by Naomi Goodsir feature in the exhibition, among pieces by designers Marteen Baas, Studio Drift, Verhoeven Twins, Studio Job, Vincent Dubourg, Campana Brothers, Nendo & artist Mona Hatoum.
À fleur de peau. Vienne 1900 (Under the Skin. Vienna 1900) adopts a novel approach to this capital period. Offering to go beyond the classic contrasts – Gustav Klimt’s generation versus Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka’s, symbolism versus expressionism in drawing and painting, or floral versus abstract ornamentation in the applied arts – the show traces the emergence of a new sensibility that found expression in artistic practices that focused on the skin. By exploring the mysteries of this sensitive surface, Vienna’s modernists would redefine the connections between humans and the world, everyday objects and their environment, buildings and streets.
The MUDAC - Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts, Lausanne (Switzerland), pays tribute to the maison Gaudard by offering for three months, a rich selection of objects and creations EXTRA-ORDINARY and (almost functional). Excessive, tiny, playful, bestial, vegetable, subtle, disturbing or even wonderful pieces from contemporary designers, artists and creators. We are honoured to have two pieces featuring in this exhibition.
The Palais Galliera presents "Back Side / Fashion from Behind", an off-site exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle which focuses on clothing seen from behind.
In a society that is obsessed with people’s faces, "Back Side / Fashion from Behind" is an original and unexpected theme. By addressing our body’s relationship to clothing from a social and psychological point of view, the exhibition questions the perception we have of our own and other people’s backs.
Rick Owens
Alaia
Antoine Bourdelle atelier
Comme des Garçons
Alexander McQueen
by Antoine Bourdelle
Martine Sitbon
Scale model of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées by Antoine Bourdelle
With Bourdelle's 19th century studios and Christian de Portzamparc's modern extension from 1992, the Musée Bourdelle offers to its visitors a unique range of exhibition areas, along with welcoming gardens that are ideal for a relaxing stroll at the heart of the Montparnasse district.
From the intimacy of Bourdelle's apartment, where the artist worked, to the immensity of the Great Hall full of plaster casts bathed in soft light, visitors are free to follow their own path among the sculptor's work.
With Rodin and the sculptor Desbois, Antoine Bourdelle founded a free sculpture school in Montparnasse. In his attempt to find his own way, Bourdelle freed himself from the style of Rodin. His Tête d'Apollon (Head of Apollo) which he began that year, shows a different way of thinking : "I broke away from the accidental, in search of the permanent plane" (Bourdelle, Ecrits sur l'art et sur la vie - Writings on Art and Life).
The decade of 1919-1929 proved a time of great official commissions : La Vierge à l'offrande (The Virgin of the offering) (1919-1923) erected in Alsace and La France (France) (1925) in front of the Grand Palais for the Decorative Arts Exhibition. The Monument au général Alvéar (Monument to general Alvear) was inaugurated in Buenos Aires in 1926, and the Monument à Adam Mickiewic (Monument to Adam Mickiewic) in Paris, on 28 April 1929.
After the exhibitions showcasing Marcel Duchamp, René Magritte, André Derain and Henri Matisse, the Centre Pompidou continues its re-examination of key 20th century works by devoting a major exhibition to Francis Bacon. The last major French exhibition of this artist’s work was held in 1996 at the Centre Pompidou. More than twenty years later, Francis Bacon: Books and Painting presents paintings dating from 1971, the year of the retrospective event at the national galleries of the Grand Palais, to his final works in 1992. Didier Ottinger is the curator of this innovative exploration of the influence of literature in Francis Bacon’s painting.
13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition at POWER STATION OF ART in SHANGHAI curated by MUDAC Lausanne from 25.08.19 till 25.10.19. The exhibition “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will be on view at Shanghai Power Station of Design (psD). “Nez à Nez”– which literally translates as “nose to nose” – draws attention to the fact that this is not an exhibition to be “viewed”; instead, one needs to “smell” it. Unlike typical perfume exhibitions, “Nez à Nez” focuses on the creative processes of perfumers themselves. Across a series of interactive installations, “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will present a fresh and fragrant celebration of smell.
According to statistics, there are only about 400 fine perfumers working worldwide, which is remarkably fewer than the number of astronauts. The surprising scarcity of professionals in perfume design reflects the painstaking and challenging work demanded by the industry. Tracing the careers of thirteen individual perfumers, the exhibition will focus on a number of themes: Simplicity, Innovation, Carnality, Mastership, Tradition and Nature. Whilst each perfumer entered the industry fora variety of reasons, they all completed rigorous training and carried out extensive research, learning how to balance ingredients and discover their own individual identities.
Perfume is like a kind of poetry that floats in the air. By awakening people’s sense of smell, a fragrance can evoke powerful memories and inspire new emotions. In order to allow visitors to experience these transient aromas, this exhibition will set perfume free from traditional containers and bottles in an innovative installation that presents fragrance in a new context. By interacting with specially designed fans or soaking up the atmospheric qualities of painted glass, visitors can experience perfume in a completely new light. Through these mysterious instruments and magical smells, we can open up endless imaginary worlds. Design by Studio Glithero.
ABOUT PSA - Established on October 1, 2012, the Power Station of Art (PSA) is the first state-run museum dedicated to contemporary art in mainland China, and is also home to the Shanghai Biennale. Renovated from the former Nanshi Power Plant, the building once hosted the Pavilion of Future during the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. The museum has not only witnessed the city’s vast changes from the industrial age to the IT era, but also provided a rich source of inspiration for artists with its simple yet straightforward architectural style. As a key player in Shanghai’s new urban culture, PSA regards continual innovation and progress as the key to its long-term vitality. The museum has strived to provide an open platform for the public to learn and appreciate contemporary art, by breakingdown the barrier between life and art, and promoting cooperation and knowledge generation between different schools of art and culture.
MOPA (Museum of Perfume Art) by Crème de la Crème - Haute Parfumerie, exhibition “Forbidden Ingredients” during ARTVILNIUS’19 - International Contemporary Art Fair in Vilnius, Lithuania.
“Choker” fashion accessory by Naomi Goodsir.Photos by Donatas Zazirkas.
We are happy to announce our participation in ARTVILNIUS’19, Baltic International Contemporary Art Fair from May 30th to June 2nd, 2019 at Exhibition and Congress Centre Litexpo, Vilnius, Lithuania, in partnership with CRÈME DE LA CRÈME - Haute Parfumerie.
ArtVilnius is the only contemporary art fair in Lithuania and the largest art fair in the Eastern Europe region. ArtVilnius, which had its start in 2009, was one of the most important events in the Vilnius – European Capital of Culture project. Over the last eight years the art fair has expanded and become firmly established on the local and international art scene, as well as on the list of must-visit events for art lovers.
This is also confirmed by the statistics. Every year ArtVilnius has over 20,000 visitors, with about 60 art galleries from a dozen or so countries participating ((Belgium, Germany, Estonia, Latvia, Poland, Ukraine, Lithuania, Belarus, the Netherlands, Russia, Italy, and France). The applications of galleries wishing to participate in the art fair are reviewed and selected by a jury made up of art critics and art market experts, thereby ensuring the professionalism of the galleries at the fair.
As the only art fair of its type in the region, it aims to be universally democratic. For this reason, the main objectives of ArtVilnius are not limited to stimulating the art market in the Eastern and Northern Europe region, as well as the presentation of a representative panorama of contemporary art galleries. The fair’s organisers have integrated Vilnius into the system of the most significant centres of contemporary art in Europe and have helped it become a bridge between East and West. The ArtVilnius team has established and continues to develop international contacts with contemporary art museums, institutions, curators, collectors, and journalists.
Naomi had the honour to create a signature scent for Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel.
A bespoke scented candle, respecting the illustrious history and uniqueness of Hôtel de Crillon, as well as fine French perfumery.
A free interpretation by Naomi : the candle is a homage to this Parisian landmark and to the Duke of Crillon, who inspired Moreau & Robert in 1860 to conceive a rose.
Perfumer Karine Chevallier
An oriental floral with hints of honeyed rose*, precious amber, woody notes and warm spices. Both vintage and contemporary, this elegant scented candle is a tribute to classical perfumery and to the eminent history of Hôtel de Crillon. Perfumer Karine Chevallier reinterprets the spirit of this Parisian icon through the years - between illustrious guests and French impertinence.
* « Duc de Crillon » rose was created in 1860 by Moreau & Robert as an eponymous homage to the Duke of Crillon, an emblematic figure of French history. A “Bourbon” rose, opulent and perfumed. Moreau & Robert were one of the most renowned French horticulturists credited for roses such as “Jacques Cartier” and “Comte de Chambord”.
13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition by MUDAC Lausanne & Nez la revue from 15.02.19 till 16.06.19. An immersive experience that offers a glimpse into aspects of this applied art form that are often shrouded in secrecy. Here, design serves to elevate the art of perfumery. Perfumers : Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Isabelle Doyen, Céline Ellena, Jean-Claude Ellena, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Guillaume, Vero Kern, Patricia de Nicolai, Fabrice Pellegrin, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Lorenzo Villoresi. Design by Studio Glithero.
ISABELLE DOYEN - Ninfeo Meo by Goutal Paris (2010) / Turtle Vetiver by Les Nez (2013) / Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir (2017).
DOMINIQUE ROPION - Kenzo Jungle by Kenzo (1996) / Alien by Mugler (2005) / Portrait of a Lady by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2010).
MAURICE ROUCEL - Tocade by Rochas (1994) / Insolence by Guerlain (2006) / Musc Ravageur by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2000).
What an honour for Nuit de Bakélite (2017) to be affiliated with: Fracas by Piguet (1948), Giorgio Berverly Hills (1981), Poison by Dior (1985), Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens (1998), Carnal Flower by Frédéric Malle (2000).
“TIMELINE” at the Galerie des Ponchettes in Nice (France), the artist creates an immersive environmental installation like a garden of delights, in which frescoes, ruins ans spontaneous vegetation offer an experience of time. The landscape dreamed up by Michel Blazy reveals what appear to be ancestral frescoes. Dotted with everyday objects - a hard disc, a brick, a pipe, a coat, a bottle - overrun with prolific vegetation, the space appears to belong to another time, like a forgotten ruin. In the center, a heap of coal is overgrown with vegetation, reborn from its ashes. A landscape drawn on an architectural scale like a post-romantic garden of meditation.
“TIMELINE” at The Galerie des Ponchettes / MAMAC, Hors des Murs. July 7th /November 4th 2018. 7, Quai des Etats-Unis, Nice - France. www.mamac-nice.org
