magazine, News, Parfums, press
News
News, Nuit de Bakélite, press, Review
ONE OF A KIND - NUIT DE BAKÉLITE
According to the AU PARFUM editorial staff, between 2010 & 2019, about 20,000 perfumes were launched. They voted the top 10 niche perfumes that stood out with a strong creative vision. We feel honoured to have one of our perfumes included.
1 - Cuir d’Ange, Hermès
2 - Nuit de Bakélite, Naomi Goodsir Parfums
3 - L’Heure Fougueuse, Cartier
4 - Portrait of a Lady, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
5 - Tabac Tabou, Parfums d’Empire
6 - Mito, Vero Profumo
7 - Le Cri, Parfums d’Empire
8 - Misia, Chanel
9 - L’Heure Perdue, Cartier
10 - Superstitious, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Thank you to our customers & retailers who have supported our perfumes since 2012.
We would also to thank, apart from Au Parfum, Dariush Alavi (Parfums Persolaise) who has also mentioned Nuit de Bakélite in his “decade selection”.
IRIS CENDRÉ, BEAUTÉ GOTHIQUE
A very interesting critique, by Olivier David for Au Parfum, about Iris in general and more particularly Iris Cendré by Julien Rasquinet.
Art, Collaborations, Event, Hotel, News
EXCLUSIVE SCENTED CANDLE FOR HÔTEL DE CRILLON, PARIS
Available exclusively at :
The Boutique Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel 10 Place de la Concorde, 75008 Paris.
Naomi had the honour to create a signature scent for Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel.
A bespoke scented candle, respecting the illustrious history and uniqueness of Hôtel de Crillon, as well as fine French perfumery.
A free interpretation by Naomi : the candle is a homage to this Parisian landmark and to the Duke of Crillon, who inspired Moreau & Robert in 1860 to conceive a rose.
Perfumer Karine Chevallier
An oriental floral with hints of honeyed rose*, precious amber, woody notes and warm spices. Both vintage and contemporary, this elegant scented candle is a tribute to classical perfumery and to the eminent history of Hôtel de Crillon. Perfumer Karine Chevallier reinterprets the spirit of this Parisian icon through the years - between illustrious guests and French impertinence.
* « Duc de Crillon » rose was created in 1860 by Moreau & Robert as an eponymous homage to the Duke of Crillon, an emblematic figure of French history. A “Bourbon” rose, opulent and perfumed. Moreau & Robert were one of the most renowned French horticulturists credited for roses such as “Jacques Cartier” and “Comte de Chambord”.
News, Parfums, magazine, press
GLASS MAGAZINE, UK
Nuit de Bakélite. Autumn 2018 issue.
BEHIND THE DOORS OF ... LITCHFIELD, VANCOUVER
Our perfumes just landed at Litchfield Store in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.
Litchfield is more than a collection of things. The shop reflects founder Jonathon Litchfield’s family aesthetic for living. Life is a series of simple moments and those moments are made beautiful by the tools we use to live. Litchfield’s revolving collection features pieces built with quality and craftsmanship. We want to share our family philosophy of how we live with you. Visiting our store is like stepping into our home.
Visit Litchfield in Gastown today at 38 Water St., Vancouver, BC or call (604) 428-5880.
FIFI AWARDS FRANCE, 2018
Nuit de Bakélite is in the top 6 finalists of the French FIFI Awards for the "Prix des Experts", category Independent niche brand. Nuit de Bakélite is the only non-french perfume and so far the first perfume from an Australian creator ever nominated for such an award. Thank you to Isabelle Doyen for her tremendous talent.
"The Fragrance Foundation's mission is to promote the finest talents and creativity of perfumery; to promote its cultural and artistic values, the expertise of its professions, and to spread the fragrance through various actions within the profession and to the general public."
Displays, inspiration, News, Parfums, Windows
A WINDOW IN COPENHAGEN, Denmark
"INSOMNIA" in Copenhaguen
Our latest window display dedicated to Nuit de Bakélite for Crime Passionnel in Copenhagen. Thank you to Aivaras & Domas.
Press, News, Parfumeur, Parfums
STYLIST MAGAZINE, France
" VOTRE BENCH - JANE CAMPION. Parce que le doigt d'Harvey Keitel dans le trou du bas noir d'Holly Hunter dans la Leçon de piano, c'était érotique à vous faire lacérer tout l'inventaire du rayon Wolford. Parce que dans sa série Top of the Lake, ses gonzesses dézinguées par le patriarcat se rebiffent. Parce que Jane Campion n'a jamais flanché dans sa mise à vif des chairs et des âmes féminines, on lui cueille une fleur fatale mise à nu. Tubéreuse décapitée avant d'avoir fait tourner la tête aux vierges, plutôt suc que corolle, à la limite du caoutchouc, cette insomniaque Nuit de Bakélite est l'antithèse des tubéreuses-divas comme Fracas our Carnal Flower. Conçue par des femmes nées comme Jane Campion aux antipodes - la créatrice Naomi Goodsir en Australie, la parfumeuse Isabelle Doyen à Tahiti - Nuit de Bakélite a la beauté crue de celles qui ne veulent plus faire semblant pour plaire. Et ça, c'est ce qu'on peut imaginer de plus dench". Article by Denyse Beaulieu for Stylist Magazine, February 2018.
NEW YORK TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE, Spain
Event, inspiration, News, Parfums, Restaurant, Travels
OLFACTIVE DINNER AT NOEL RESTAURANT, Zagreb
The dinner took place at NOEL Michelin awarded restaurant in Zagreb, on December 19th, 2018. Perfume connoisseurs were invited to discover several dishes & cocktails inspired by some perfumes, including Cuir Velours & Or du Sérail. Dinner by Juraj Sotosek Rihtarec, founder of BL'eauOG - Fine perfumes blog. Thank you Juraj.
Credit : Noel restaurant
BEST OF 2017 by Colognoisseur
The Top 5 (Perfume of the Year Candidates) by Mark Benhke.
Including ...
"Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite - The creative direction of Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier matched with the vistuosity of perfumer Isabelle Doyen provided the best tuberose of 2017. Their choice to focus on the green stemmy quality by editing out the flower they found something within which reinvents tuberose".
News, Parfumeur, Parfums, Review
THE 10 BEST PERFUMES OF 2017 by Persolaise
NUIT DE BAKELITE
Article by Dariush Alavi.
"Nuit de Bakélite from Naomi Goodsir (Isabelle Doyen). Just when you thought there was nothing more to be done with tuberose, along came Isabelle Doyen to work her magic and convince you that you were smelling the tempestuous flower for the very first time. Creamy, bitter and green in equal measure, Bakélite was one of the year's undisputed spellbinders".
THE 10 DENCHEST SCENTS OF 2017 by Denyse Beaulieu
"I did find out about a fragrance whose name is my new motto: Stay Dench “Dench” being a synonym for “sick” (which means “nice” in English slang), “used for saying that someone or something is extremely attractive, fashionable, impressive, etc.” according to the Macmillan online dictionary. Launched by grime star Lethal Bizzle, the word springs directly from Judi Dench’s unimpeachable badassery. It is now the name of a brand and a fragrance (if you’ve smelled it, please report) for which Dame Judith teamed up with Lethal Bizzle for a first lesson in rap. So I’ll just leave this here before moving on to my favorite launches of 2017".
"So, what made my nose go "Pow!" in 2017?"
"Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir nips tuberose's criminal intentions right in the bud, turning niche's fetish flower into a venomous stem oozing Day-glo sap. One of the year's most striking olfactory signatures" - Denyse Beaulieu.
DIVA MAGAZINE, Croatia
November 2017 issue. Article by Ivo Parac featuring Nuit de Bakélite.
Art, inspiration, News, Parfums, Press
ANIMATION ...
Posta Magazine, Russia. Quite cool animations, indeed ! Article by Maya Beloglinskaya for Posta Magazine. Animations by Alex Baltsevich.
NEZ, LA REVUE N°4, France
All about our latest perfume, Nuit de Bakélite, composed by Isabelle Doyen.
Article by Jeanne Doré - October 2017
News, Parfumeur, Parfums, Press
BERGAMOTTO & BENZOINO, Italy
NUIT DE BAKELITE (Isabelle Doyen 2017)
Nuit de Bakélite (by Isabelle Doyen), the new addition in Naomi Goodsir's already excellent line (website here), is a “nature” tuberose, that is with no silicones, fluorescent neons, high heels and shiny lips and all the rest we are used to.
Nuit de Bakelite is simple. Linear. Like a perfect, white flower standing on a tall stem, wearing only its truth.
A green, vegetable, damp, slightly smoky fragrance, with a powerful sensuality deriving from being naked and exposed.
The green side of this flower is backed by a bouquet of galbanum, angelica, davana, violet leaves and karo karounde, a natural, green, lush accord with such a strong personality would do the fragrance alone. From this magnificent accord, tuberose emerges in all its raw grace, as a huge amethyst with incredible purple shades, brightening the dark of night with an iridescent glow emanating from the inside outward.
The support structure consists of iris, leather, styrax (benjoin), tobacco and guaiac wood. A warm, dry, balanced set that begins to emerge after an hour from spraying, to stay on the skin for many, many hours.
Neither male nor female, Nuit de Bakélite is a fragrance with a crazy diffusive power: it is able to create a huge scented bubble around those who wear it. A translucent bubble, indeed, inviting others to approach and make compliments (personally tested).
So far, Nuit de Bakélite is the only fragrance - along with the Perris extract – that respects the character of the true blossom. It has nothing to do with the plasticized, carnal, fluorescent, medicinal, or hyper sexy tuberose we have been used to for decades by Fracas, Criminelle, Carnal, and all the others, and I really liked that.
Nuit de Bakélite makes obvious that everyone has always given an interpretation of this flower, while this is a portrait from real, a 3D polaroid which so far, perhaps, no one had understood so deeply.
Article by Marika Vecchiattini.
http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.fr/
AU PARFUM, Nuit de Bakélite
The VVitch
par Alexis Toublanc, le 10 août 2017
Alors que le monde précieux et délicat qu’elle avait construit chez Annick Goutal s’étiole à petit feu, Isabelle Doyen ne perd pas la finesse qui est la sienne et signe pour Naomi Goodsir un de ses parfums les plus fascinants.
Souffles verts, squelettes de fleurs désarticulés, pantins solaires aux yeux loucheurs : l’univers olfactif de Nuit de Bakélite est une force poétique et monstrueuse sans précédent. Jamais vous n’aurez gouté à une tubéreuse aussi folle, aux cris et aux os aussi captivants. Une haleine verte, pinçante, gazeuse renvoie aux contes et légendes d’outre-espace que proposait The Unicorn Spell, liée ici aux facettes végétales et médicinales de la fleur blanche ainsi qu’aux ongles racinaires de l’iris et de sa sœur de l’ouest, la carotte. Ce sortilège de vie verte donne un élan aigu, déformé, à la perspective incroyable.
La tubéreuse se pare de dentelle gothique, étend ses doigts expressionnistes, nous saisit le nez et séduit sans une ombre d’hésitation. Les monstres sont les créatures ultimes de la création. Humains, artificiels, symboliques, terrifiants et pleins de joie, les monstres respirent la puissance créatrice de la nuit. La nuit romantique noire, la nuit des arbres effeuillés et des fleurs empoisonnées, la nuit des fantômes et des lycanthropes, la nuit des squelettes et des elfes. Nuit de Bakélite est l’invitation ultime à ce monde plein de choix forts et hors des jus aseptisés et sans âme. Une fleur, une couleur et un bois de feu : Isabelle Doyen broie les herbes folles, concocte les élixirs floraux et transforme son métier au service d’une vision enflammée du monde et des odeurs qui le composent.
Vous n’avez jamais senti quelque chose comme Nuit de Bakélite. Choisir de le porter c’est faire le choix d’une autre voie. Au diable les ourlets à cheville apparente, les talons aiguilles assourdissants et les costumes mortifères. Mordez à pleine dent cette fleur de braise, goutez sa salive de poivron, palpez le gras de sa texture nocturne, laissez ses facettes miroiter vos idées les plus folles.
Nuit de Bakélite est un acte de création pur qui en laissera sûrement quelques-uns éloignés de ses chaudrons. Mais qui sera touché par sa folie, sa finesse et ses atours désarticulés, vivra une des expériences olfactives les plus excitantes de ces dernières années. Naomi Goodsir et Isabelle Doyen ont fait renaître des morts la parfumerie de niche qui nous a tant fait vibrer.
http://www.auparfum.com/nuit-de-bakelite-naomi-goodsir-3729
News, Parfums, Parfumeur, Press
CAFLEUREBON, USA
Neo-Vintage Tuberose Draw - "Tuberose is a bit two-faced. She can be the sauciest floozy in town, all animalic carnality and buttery buxomness. But meet her another day, and she is positively green; potently floral and still something of a seductress,but more Kim Novak than Jane Mansfield. Naomi Goodsir’s Nuit de Bakélite is in a league of her own: the only tuberose I’ve met that has more facets than Elizabeth Taylor’s engagement ring. Alternately crunchy with plant stems, smoky, creamy, rooty, floral; sylvan and urban all at once. It is tuberose maximus, the distillation of every conceivable aspect of the flower, the ground where it grew, the braceleted hand that cut the blossom, the smoke in the air of the room it now sits in. It’s the whole kit and caboodle of everything tuberose. And it’s a knockout.
There is, of course, a back story. Nuit de Bakélite’s genesis came about some four years ago when Australian milliner, designer and Creative Director Naomi Goodsir shared her love of vintage 1930s Bakelite jewelry with superstar perfumer Isabelle Doyen. Co-Creative Director, Renaud Coutadaudier, had known perfumer Mme. Doyen for 13 years as a friend, but they had never worked together. The inspiration was sparked, and after a number of iterations during which Coutaudier, Goodsir and Doyen worked closely together, what emerged was a tuberose that turns tuberose on its head, flips it back and whirls it around. Isabelle Doyen describes her singular creation as “tuberose sap, peeled tuberose, tuberose in a cage of green and leather …” It is all those things and more.
If you thought you knew tuberose from Fracas and its buttery buddies, or from the girlish green floral of Estee Lauder Private Collection, Nuit de Bakélite will have you rethinking tuberose’s distinctive charms. The thick dairy lactones of the lounging voluptuary are there, certainly, acknowledging tuberose’s vintage antecedents with a classical spray of white flowers. But so too is the fresh breeze-blown fragrance of young buds, the tuberose as she is just getting out of bed.
Nuit de Bakélite starts with a crunchy, juicy, clean greenness, uncannily like a fresh lettuce leaf pulled straight from the ground.The crisp verdancy of this top note is quickly joined by pastryish sweetness fromiris and angelica. Kharo karounde, with its citrusy-jasmine bouquet, joins in, opening out the grassiness of the opening and accentuating tuberose’s airier, virginal side.
Then things get a bit smudgy as a waft of smoke adds a kohl-like veil over the intensity of the florals. In the middle stages, rippling layers of resins, white flowers and woods peak through at different moments, making Nuit de Bakélite a sultry floriental one moment, a Sobranie puffing garconne the next.
In reference to its namesake, Nuit de Bakélite has a distinctive plastic note that comes out now. Initially, it is buried beneath the topsoil of woody and smoky notes of the middle stage. But after half an hour or so, it gradually begins to stand out, smelling like a combination of Barbie doll and vintage melamine plates. It adds a quirky, modern quality to a classical composition.
Like your tuberose with cream? Wait till the dry-down. You’ll find that Nuit de Bakélite has gotten in touch with her bad self again, channeling the busty pinups of Technicolor. Now she morphs into a milky vixen almost rosy and custard-like.
Nuit de Bakélite proves for perhaps the first time that tuberose can be just as much a chameleon as narcissus, violet and jasmine. Give her a little time, and this fleshy white flower will perform a striptease that, while showing off her naughty side, brings you also to the unadorned, dewy plant she can be when she chooses. In Nuit de Bakélite’s waning moments, this eccentric tuberose settles down on her chaise lounge, lights a smoke, winks at you through her monocle and beckons you with a crooked finger. You’d be a fool to resist.
Notes include angelica, violet leaf, galbanum, orris, karo karounde, tuberose, leather, davana, styrax, tobacco, labdanum, gaiac wood, everlasting flower, ylang, and woods".
— Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
An interesting review of Nuit de Bakélite, by Lauryn Beer & Michelyn Camen. July, 2017