SIX GREAT SCENTS FOR SUMMER including NUIT DE BAKÉLITE. Words by Ute Junker. Photos by Evie S/UnSplash + Supplied.
magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Parfums, press
GQ MAGAZINE, AUSTRALIA
7 New fragrances you’ll actually want to gift this Christmas by David Smiedt - December 3rd, 2020
Fashion, magazine, Parfums, press
GARAGE MAGAZINE ISSUE 19, USA
The endless gray stretch of quarantine has warped time into units previously unknown to me, measuring hours by phantom presences. Perfume—a closetful of it, so many bottles and vials that I can barely shut the door, a reminder of past travels and smiles—has been a faithful companion during this disembodying hover-year. Its mirror: the pulled-down shades and soft dark envelopment of watching films, light flickering off a beat-up laptop, offering respite and another layer of other—real time—pass and melt. In both, vaporous, fickle media, ever-changing, light particles dancing off my face and skin, I surrender myself to their own inner workings, worlds, and pathways—they give my rolling, fretful, nearly-always-bursting-with-question-marks mind a chance to stop, collect itself, drift, play.
Where can my physical body go if it is locked indoors? I can transfer and inhabit, nibble, feed off, empathize, and fall in love with actors and scents, a new one a day, according to my mood. In losing yourself, you get re-embodied. My heart beats with different screens, varied scents. Here is a scattering of stars, ones who have nurtured me and provided escape and pleasure during this year, individualistic women who shine gemlike, inspire and dazzle, with fragrances dreamed and real paired with them.
Collage by Joy Matashi. Fashion Editor : Jared Ellner. Article by KASHINA, NOV. 2020
PEARL CHANG WOULD LOVE THE NOTES OF AMBER IN NUIT DE BAKÉLITE BY NAOMI GOODSIR, ENSCONCED BY THIS DRAMATIC, JEWEL-ENCRUSTED RING BY VALENTINO GARAVANI. SAIRA BANU SUMMONS ADAMEKU BY DI SER, SCENTED WITH MEDICINAL MUSKDANA AND CANTALOUPE, AND THIS EMERALD-EYED, ONYX-NOSED PANTHER RING BY CARTIER.TOP PEARL CHANG IN 'THE SHADOW CHASER' (1973), 'WOLF DEVIL WOMAN' (1982), 'THE WAR OF THE BOUNDARY' (1978) COURTESY OF HONG-KONG MOVIE DATABASE. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ALAMY.
PEARL CHANG
The Taiwanese martial arts supernova behind the unclassifiable and fantastical Wolf Devil Woman (1982), Pearl Chang was a multi-talented director, writer, producer, star—often all at once. Her extreme energy spiraled in all directions. She tore through her kung fu epics with whirlwind power and lightning-bolt editing, whiplash-inducing battles fought in outrageous jeweled and tasseled headdresses, poles and swords flying through the air. Australian designer Naomi Goodsir has created perfumes as unpredictable, illogical, and daredevil as Pearl—the electric, forked-tongue Nuit de Bakélite, with its livid, shape-shifting, furious green tuberose that lasts for days on the skin. And Bois d’Ascèse and its soilish, dampened-ash scent of dripping caverns, unearthed pu’er tea, gnarled roots, just-plucked feathers with flesh still attached, and spat-out wine. They’re both visceral, wildly inventive scents fit for the untetherable force of nature that is Pearl.
architecture, design, inspiration, magazine
INTERIOR DESIGNERS - GABRIELLE ALLAM & BRIAN HOY, SYDNEY
Gabrielle Allam & Brian Hoy are long time friends & talented interior designers, based in Sydney. One of their latest projects featured in BELLE MAGAZINE, November 2020 issue.
Photographer : Anthony Basheer
Interview, magazine, Parfums, press
NEZ LA REVUE - NAOMI GOODSIR, LE PARFUM À QUATRE MAINS
Art, Boutiques, Fashion, inspiration
COLLAGES BY KITTY CALLAGHAN FOR SHOWROOM X
Kitty Callaghan is a talented Australian artist & photographer who was commissioned by Showroom X to create collages for Cuir Velours & Bois d’Ascèse.
Credits : Kitty Callaghan & Showroom X
@kittycallaghan
@showroom_x_
inspiration, Interview, magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Parfumeur
THE GENESIS OF NUIT DE BAKÉLITE BY AU PARFUM
Au Parfum vous propose un dossier qui présente la genèse, le développement et les rouages d’une création olfactive hors normes, Nuit de Bakélite d’Isabelle Doyen pour Naomi Goodsir. Cette série est née de la même envie de décortiquer un parfum unique comme le premier article consacré à L’Heure perdue de Mathilde Laurent pour Cartier.
FULL INTERVIEW & ARTICLE : The Genesis of Nuit de Bakélite
Nobuyoshi Araki, Feast of Angels : Sex Scenes, 1992 (Source : Artsy)
Alberto Giacometti, Fil tendu, 1932 (Source : Kunsthaus Zürich)
Isabelle Doyen, Perfumer - Credit Evgeniya Chudakova for Fragrantica
Isabelle Doyen & Naomi Goodsir, Credit Egobox
Louise Bourgeois, Insomnia, 1996 (Source : The Museum of Modern Art), The Small Hours de la série What is the Shape of this Problem ?, 1999 (Source : Malin Gallery) et Untitled, no. 68 of 220, de la série The Insomnia Drawings, 1995 (Source : The Museum of Modern Art)
Art, Book, Nuit de Bakélite, Perfume
LIFETIME PERFUMES - FROM JICKY (1889) TO NUIT DE BAKÉLITE (2017)
Loin d’être une simple liste, cet ouvrage de référence propose une véritable histoire des parfums, à travers 130 ans de créations.
Jeanne Doré et le collectif Nez ont voulu mettre en lumière les 111 parfums qui comptent, qu’ils soient chefs de file, célébrés ou méconnus, best-sellers ou disparus. Cette nouvelle édition consacre un chapitre aux parfums disparus tout en présentant de nouvelles créations lancées depuis 2017.
De Jicky (1889) à Nuit de Bakélite (2017), cette sélection aussi subjective que passionnée est classée en 7 périodes marquant les grandes transformations de l’industrie. Les textes, sensibles, curieux et didactiques, s’adressent aux experts comme aux profanes, aux jeunes amateurs comme aux grands connaisseurs.
Les Cent onze parfums qu’il faut sentir avant de mourir contribue indiscutablement à l’émergence — tant attendue — d’une culture olfactive exigeante et accessible, indispensable pour mieux sentir et ressentir le monde qui nous entoure.
1880 – 1939 : L’âge d’or de la parfumerie moderne
L’apparition de la synthèse chimique dans les formules des parfumeurs bouleverse leur manière de travailler. Les créations sont alors plus abstraites et artistiques, et parmi elles demeurent des grands chefs d’œuvre comme Jicky, Tabac blond, N°5, Joy…
1940 – 1969 : Des couturiers aux hippies
Entre l’essor des couturiers parfumeurs à partir des années 40 et la vague de fraicheur à la fin des années 60, cette période riche en évolution voit naître de grands succès tels que Femme, Miss Dior, L’Air du temps, Eau sauvage…
1970 – 1979 : Un vent de liberté
La publicité prend plus de place et les parfums de marques de prêt-à-porter font leur apparition. N°19, Rive gauche, Opium, Mûre et Musc, Eau d’orange verte illustrent la diversité olfactive de cette décennie.
1980 – 1989 : Le règne du marketing
Les compositions se font plus puissantes et exubérantes, jouant sur la transgression et l’opulence, à l’image de Poison, Loulou ou Obsession, tandis que la masculinité s’affirme, à l’instar de Kouros ou Bel ami.
1990 – 1999 : Une parfumerie de fin de siècle
Le marché de la parfumerie s’internationalise, de nouvelles tendances olfactives s’imposent, entre fraîcheur purifiante et douceur régressive. L’Eau d’Issey, Angel, Trésor, Le Mâle incarnent la dernière décennie du XXe siècle.
2000 – 2009 : L’éveil de la niche
Alors que les lancements se multiplient, émerge une nouvelle parfumerie indépendante et innovante appelée « la niche ». Flower by Kenzo, For Her, Bois d’argent, Carnal Flower ou encore Terre d’Hermès ont marqué cette période.
2010 – aujourd’hui : Mutations en marche
Tandis que la niche poursuit son essor et intéresse les grands groupes du luxe, les parfums deviennent plus calibrés, stéréotypés, mais de belles créations tirent leur épingle du jeu : Portrait of a Lady, La Panthère, Misia, Cuir d’ange, Nuit de Bakélite…
Nouveau chapitre : Les parfums qu’il aurait fallu sentir avant qu’ils meurent.
Honoured to be included.
Art, design, Fashion, inspiration, magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Press
SINDROMS JOURNAL - SHADES OF GREEN
Sindroms is a journal of monochrome states of mind, published in print biannually. Curating its content based on specific colours, it investigates them across culture and immerses its readers in the feelings and moods evoked by each colour.
Nuit de Bakélite by perfumer Isabelle Doyen is happy to be part of this evergreen sindrom - Design by Studio Goodsir. Photo by Jean-Michel Sordello
Art, Collaborations, Fashion, magazine, press
VOGUE US - HEAD OVER HEELS BY AUTUMN DE WILDE
VOGUE US, August 2020 issue. Cover by photographer Annie Leibovitz, model Simone Biles.
Crown flutters with butterflies, a handmade piece designed for the shoot by Naomi Goodsir & commissioned by the great Amanda Harlech (Fashion Editor/Stylist). Photographer Autumn de Wilde who is also the Director of EMMA, a movie adapted from Jane Austen’s novel. Actress Tanya Reynolds is wearing the crown.
NICHE LIFE WITH NICHE PERFUME BY JESSICA SON YUAN
We are honoured to feature inside the new book NICHE LIFE WITH NICHE PERFUME by journalist Jessica Son Yuan.
architecture, design, inspiration, Interview
A FRIEND, A LOCKDOWN - IAN MOORE, SYDNEY
Ian Moore is a New Zealand born, Sydney based Architect, known primarily for his residential projects across Australia and New Zealand. His influences range from his childhood living in lightweight timber framed houses in New Zealand, his time spent working on Norman Foster's Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank headquarters, the California Case Study Houses, Jose Coderch in Spain and everything Brazilian.
Photos by Tess Strelein
Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion
INSIDE EXTRA-ORDINARY EXHIBITION AT MUDAC LAUSANNE, SWITZERLAND
An exhibition curated by MUDAC Lausanne. “The Bird Hat” & “The Bones”, two pieces by Naomi Goodsir feature in the exhibition, among pieces by designers Marteen Baas, Studio Drift, Verhoeven Twins, Studio Job, Vincent Dubourg, Campana Brothers, Nendo & artist Mona Hatoum.
Credits : Olga Cafiero, Roberto Aquilino, Naomi Goodsir Sudio
Exhibition till August 30th, 2020 at MUDAC - Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts. Place de la Cathédrale 6, 1005 Lausanne - Switzerland.
design, Hotel, inspiration, Restaurant, Travels
A WEEKEND IN STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN
Stockholm is truly a design destination. The form and the function are deeply linked, from furnitures, objects to graphism. All is inspiring.
RESTAURANT RICHE - For a drink & a cool dinner.
HOTEL FRANTZ - Since 1647. Simply charming.
BANK HOTEL - An institution.
Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion
EXTRA-ORDINARY EXHIBITION AT THE MUDAC, LAUSANNE
The MUDAC - Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts, Lausanne (Switzerland), pays tribute to the maison Gaudard by offering for three months, a rich selection of objects and creations EXTRA-ORDINARY and (almost functional). Excessive, tiny, playful, bestial, vegetable, subtle, disturbing or even wonderful pieces from contemporary designers, artists and creators. We are honoured to have two pieces featuring in this exhibition.
From February 26th to June 1st, 2020.
News, Nuit de Bakélite, press, Review
ONE OF A KIND - NUIT DE BAKÉLITE
According to the AU PARFUM editorial staff, between 2010 & 2019, about 20,000 perfumes were launched. They voted the top 10 niche perfumes that stood out with a strong creative vision. We feel honoured to have one of our perfumes included.
1 - Cuir d’Ange, Hermès
2 - Nuit de Bakélite, Naomi Goodsir Parfums
3 - L’Heure Fougueuse, Cartier
4 - Portrait of a Lady, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
5 - Tabac Tabou, Parfums d’Empire
6 - Mito, Vero Profumo
7 - Le Cri, Parfums d’Empire
8 - Misia, Chanel
9 - L’Heure Perdue, Cartier
10 - Superstitious, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
Thank you to our customers & retailers who have supported our perfumes since 2012.
We would also to thank, apart from Au Parfum, Dariush Alavi (Parfums Persolaise) who has also mentioned Nuit de Bakélite in his “decade selection”.
FROM NYC TO NOLA, USA
Family time in NYC & The Hamptons for Christmas to New-Orleans for NYE. Several memorable moments …
Our best adresses in New-York :
Fig & Olive - For a chic dinner, 10 E 52nd St
The Mercer Kitchen - For a cocktail & brunch, 99 Prince St.
Our best adresses in New-Orleans :
Port of Call - For the best burger in town, 838 Esplanade Ave.
The Camelia Grill - Best ever American breakfast, 626 S Carrollton Ave. The place to go.
Café du Monde - Beignets & cafés. An institution since 1862.
Café Amelie - Modern seasonal + Southern cuisine. 912 Royal St. Charming garden atmosphere.
Boutiques, Displays, Event, Parfums
LE PARAVENT, LYON
A boutique & an area worth visiting in Lyon, 35 rue Auguste Comte 69002. Thank you Serge & Alain.
Boutiques, Displays, Event, Travels
FRANCOISE URBAN BEAUTY RETREAT, LUXEMBOURG
We had the pleasure, on November 14th 2019, to present our perfumes to Françoise Urban Beauty Retreat clients in Luxembourg & for this occasion, to set up a window display.
Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels
BACK SIDE / FASHION FROM BEHIND AT MUSÉE BOURDELLE, PARIS
Bouchra Jarrar
The Palais Galliera presents "Back Side / Fashion from Behind", an off-site exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle which focuses on clothing seen from behind.
In a society that is obsessed with people’s faces, "Back Side / Fashion from Behind" is an original and unexpected theme. By addressing our body’s relationship to clothing from a social and psychological point of view, the exhibition questions the perception we have of our own and other people’s backs.
Rick Owens
Alaia
Antoine Bourdelle atelier
Comme des Garçons
Alexander McQueen
by Antoine Bourdelle
Martine Sitbon
Scale model of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées by Antoine Bourdelle
With Bourdelle's 19th century studios and Christian de Portzamparc's modern extension from 1992, the Musée Bourdelle offers to its visitors a unique range of exhibition areas, along with welcoming gardens that are ideal for a relaxing stroll at the heart of the Montparnasse district.
From the intimacy of Bourdelle's apartment, where the artist worked, to the immensity of the Great Hall full of plaster casts bathed in soft light, visitors are free to follow their own path among the sculptor's work.
With Rodin and the sculptor Desbois, Antoine Bourdelle founded a free sculpture school in Montparnasse. In his attempt to find his own way, Bourdelle freed himself from the style of Rodin. His Tête d'Apollon (Head of Apollo) which he began that year, shows a different way of thinking : "I broke away from the accidental, in search of the permanent plane" (Bourdelle, Ecrits sur l'art et sur la vie - Writings on Art and Life).
The decade of 1919-1929 proved a time of great official commissions : La Vierge à l'offrande (The Virgin of the offering) (1919-1923) erected in Alsace and La France (France) (1925) in front of the Grand Palais for the Decorative Arts Exhibition. The Monument au général Alvéar (Monument to general Alvear) was inaugurated in Buenos Aires in 1926, and the Monument à Adam Mickiewic (Monument to Adam Mickiewic) in Paris, on 28 April 1929.
MUSÉE BOURDELLE, From July 5th to November 17th 2019