Art, Boutiques, Fashion, inspiration
Kitty Callaghan is a talented Australian artist & photographer who was commissioned by Showroom X to create collages for Cuir Velours & Bois d’Ascèse.
Credits : Kitty Callaghan & Showroom X
@kittycallaghan
@showroom_x_
Art, Book, Nuit de Bakélite, Perfume
Loin d’être une simple liste, cet ouvrage de référence propose une véritable histoire des parfums, à travers 130 ans de créations.
Jeanne Doré et le collectif Nez ont voulu mettre en lumière les 111 parfums qui comptent, qu’ils soient chefs de file, célébrés ou méconnus, best-sellers ou disparus. Cette nouvelle édition consacre un chapitre aux parfums disparus tout en présentant de nouvelles créations lancées depuis 2017.
De Jicky (1889) à Nuit de Bakélite (2017), cette sélection aussi subjective que passionnée est classée en 7 périodes marquant les grandes transformations de l’industrie. Les textes, sensibles, curieux et didactiques, s’adressent aux experts comme aux profanes, aux jeunes amateurs comme aux grands connaisseurs.
Les Cent onze parfums qu’il faut sentir avant de mourir contribue indiscutablement à l’émergence — tant attendue — d’une culture olfactive exigeante et accessible, indispensable pour mieux sentir et ressentir le monde qui nous entoure.
1880 – 1939 : L’âge d’or de la parfumerie moderne
L’apparition de la synthèse chimique dans les formules des parfumeurs bouleverse leur manière de travailler. Les créations sont alors plus abstraites et artistiques, et parmi elles demeurent des grands chefs d’œuvre comme Jicky, Tabac blond, N°5, Joy…
1940 – 1969 : Des couturiers aux hippies
Entre l’essor des couturiers parfumeurs à partir des années 40 et la vague de fraicheur à la fin des années 60, cette période riche en évolution voit naître de grands succès tels que Femme, Miss Dior, L’Air du temps, Eau sauvage…
1970 – 1979 : Un vent de liberté
La publicité prend plus de place et les parfums de marques de prêt-à-porter font leur apparition. N°19, Rive gauche, Opium, Mûre et Musc, Eau d’orange verte illustrent la diversité olfactive de cette décennie.
1980 – 1989 : Le règne du marketing
Les compositions se font plus puissantes et exubérantes, jouant sur la transgression et l’opulence, à l’image de Poison, Loulou ou Obsession, tandis que la masculinité s’affirme, à l’instar de Kouros ou Bel ami.
1990 – 1999 : Une parfumerie de fin de siècle
Le marché de la parfumerie s’internationalise, de nouvelles tendances olfactives s’imposent, entre fraîcheur purifiante et douceur régressive. L’Eau d’Issey, Angel, Trésor, Le Mâle incarnent la dernière décennie du XXe siècle.
2000 – 2009 : L’éveil de la niche
Alors que les lancements se multiplient, émerge une nouvelle parfumerie indépendante et innovante appelée « la niche ». Flower by Kenzo, For Her, Bois d’argent, Carnal Flower ou encore Terre d’Hermès ont marqué cette période.
2010 – aujourd’hui : Mutations en marche
Tandis que la niche poursuit son essor et intéresse les grands groupes du luxe, les parfums deviennent plus calibrés, stéréotypés, mais de belles créations tirent leur épingle du jeu : Portrait of a Lady, La Panthère, Misia, Cuir d’ange, Nuit de Bakélite…
Nouveau chapitre : Les parfums qu’il aurait fallu sentir avant qu’ils meurent.
Honoured to be included.
Art, design, Fashion, inspiration, magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Press
Sindroms is a journal of monochrome states of mind, published in print biannually. Curating its content based on specific colours, it investigates them across culture and immerses its readers in the feelings and moods evoked by each colour.
Nuit de Bakélite by perfumer Isabelle Doyen is happy to be part of this evergreen sindrom - Design by Studio Goodsir. Photo by Jean-Michel Sordello
Art, Collaborations, Fashion, magazine, press
VOGUE US, August 2020 issue. Cover by photographer Annie Leibovitz, model Simone Biles.
Crown flutters with butterflies, a handmade piece designed for the shoot by Naomi Goodsir & commissioned by the great Amanda Harlech (Fashion Editor/Stylist). Photographer Autumn de Wilde who is also the Director of EMMA, a movie adapted from Jane Austen’s novel. Actress Tanya Reynolds is wearing the crown.
Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion
An exhibition curated by MUDAC Lausanne. “The Bird Hat” & “The Bones”, two pieces by Naomi Goodsir feature in the exhibition, among pieces by designers Marteen Baas, Studio Drift, Verhoeven Twins, Studio Job, Vincent Dubourg, Campana Brothers, Nendo & artist Mona Hatoum.
Credits : Olga Cafiero, Roberto Aquilino, Naomi Goodsir Sudio
Exhibition till August 30th, 2020 at MUDAC - Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts. Place de la Cathédrale 6, 1005 Lausanne - Switzerland.
Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion
The MUDAC - Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts, Lausanne (Switzerland), pays tribute to the maison Gaudard by offering for three months, a rich selection of objects and creations EXTRA-ORDINARY and (almost functional). Excessive, tiny, playful, bestial, vegetable, subtle, disturbing or even wonderful pieces from contemporary designers, artists and creators. We are honoured to have two pieces featuring in this exhibition.
From February 26th to June 1st, 2020.
Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels
Bouchra Jarrar
The Palais Galliera presents "Back Side / Fashion from Behind", an off-site exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle which focuses on clothing seen from behind.
In a society that is obsessed with people’s faces, "Back Side / Fashion from Behind" is an original and unexpected theme. By addressing our body’s relationship to clothing from a social and psychological point of view, the exhibition questions the perception we have of our own and other people’s backs.
Rick Owens
Alaia
Antoine Bourdelle atelier
Comme des Garçons
Alexander McQueen
by Antoine Bourdelle
Martine Sitbon
Scale model of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées by Antoine Bourdelle
With Bourdelle's 19th century studios and Christian de Portzamparc's modern extension from 1992, the Musée Bourdelle offers to its visitors a unique range of exhibition areas, along with welcoming gardens that are ideal for a relaxing stroll at the heart of the Montparnasse district.
From the intimacy of Bourdelle's apartment, where the artist worked, to the immensity of the Great Hall full of plaster casts bathed in soft light, visitors are free to follow their own path among the sculptor's work.
With Rodin and the sculptor Desbois, Antoine Bourdelle founded a free sculpture school in Montparnasse. In his attempt to find his own way, Bourdelle freed himself from the style of Rodin. His Tête d'Apollon (Head of Apollo) which he began that year, shows a different way of thinking : "I broke away from the accidental, in search of the permanent plane" (Bourdelle, Ecrits sur l'art et sur la vie - Writings on Art and Life).
The decade of 1919-1929 proved a time of great official commissions : La Vierge à l'offrande (The Virgin of the offering) (1919-1923) erected in Alsace and La France (France) (1925) in front of the Grand Palais for the Decorative Arts Exhibition. The Monument au général Alvéar (Monument to general Alvear) was inaugurated in Buenos Aires in 1926, and the Monument à Adam Mickiewic (Monument to Adam Mickiewic) in Paris, on 28 April 1929.
MUSÉE BOURDELLE, From July 5th to November 17th 2019
After the exhibitions showcasing Marcel Duchamp, René Magritte, André Derain and Henri Matisse, the Centre Pompidou continues its re-examination of key 20th century works by devoting a major exhibition to Francis Bacon. The last major French exhibition of this artist’s work was held in 1996 at the Centre Pompidou. More than twenty years later, Francis Bacon: Books and Painting presents paintings dating from 1971, the year of the retrospective event at the national galleries of the Grand Palais, to his final works in 1992. Didier Ottinger is the curator of this innovative exploration of the influence of literature in Francis Bacon’s painting.
(Second Version of Triptych 1944), 1988
Study of a Bull, 1991
‘Street Scene (with Car in Distance)’, 1984
FRANCIS BACON : BOOKS AND PAINTING / September 11th 2019 - January 20th 2020
Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Nuit de Bakélite
13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition at POWER STATION OF ART in SHANGHAI curated by MUDAC Lausanne from 25.08.19 till 25.10.19. The exhibition “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will be on view at Shanghai Power Station of Design (psD). “Nez à Nez”– which literally translates as “nose to nose” – draws attention to the fact that this is not an exhibition to be “viewed”; instead, one needs to “smell” it. Unlike typical perfume exhibitions, “Nez à Nez” focuses on the creative processes of perfumers themselves. Across a series of interactive installations, “Nez à Nez: Contemporary Perfumers” will present a fresh and fragrant celebration of smell.
According to statistics, there are only about 400 fine perfumers working worldwide, which is remarkably fewer than the number of astronauts. The surprising scarcity of professionals in perfume design reflects the painstaking and challenging work demanded by the industry. Tracing the careers of thirteen individual perfumers, the exhibition will focus on a number of themes: Simplicity, Innovation, Carnality, Mastership, Tradition and Nature. Whilst each perfumer entered the industry fora variety of reasons, they all completed rigorous training and carried out extensive research, learning how to balance ingredients and discover their own individual identities.
Perfume is like a kind of poetry that floats in the air. By awakening people’s sense of smell, a fragrance can evoke powerful memories and inspire new emotions. In order to allow visitors to experience these transient aromas, this exhibition will set perfume free from traditional containers and bottles in an innovative installation that presents fragrance in a new context. By interacting with specially designed fans or soaking up the atmospheric qualities of painted glass, visitors can experience perfume in a completely new light. Through these mysterious instruments and magical smells, we can open up endless imaginary worlds. Design by Studio Glithero.
ABOUT PSA - Established on October 1, 2012, the Power Station of Art (PSA) is the first state-run museum dedicated to contemporary art in mainland China, and is also home to the Shanghai Biennale. Renovated from the former Nanshi Power Plant, the building once hosted the Pavilion of Future during the 2010 Shanghai World Expo. The museum has not only witnessed the city’s vast changes from the industrial age to the IT era, but also provided a rich source of inspiration for artists with its simple yet straightforward architectural style. As a key player in Shanghai’s new urban culture, PSA regards continual innovation and progress as the key to its long-term vitality. The museum has strived to provide an open platform for the public to learn and appreciate contemporary art, by breakingdown the barrier between life and art, and promoting cooperation and knowledge generation between different schools of art and culture.
