"NEZ A NEZ" - CONTEMPORARY PERFUMERS AT MUDAC, LAUSANNE

13 contemporary perfumers, 39 perfumes including Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen. A great honour. An exhibition by MUDAC Lausanne & Nez la revue from 15.02.19 till 16.06.19. An immersive experience that offers a glimpse into aspects of this applied art form that are often shrouded in secrecy. Here, design serves to elevate the art of perfumery. Perfumers : Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Isabelle Doyen, Céline Ellena, Jean-Claude Ellena, Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Olivia Giacobetti, Pierre Guillaume, Vero Kern, Patricia de Nicolai, Fabrice Pellegrin, Dominique Ropion, Maurice Roucel, Lorenzo Villoresi. Design by Studio Glithero.

ISABELLE DOYEN - Ninfeo Meo by Goutal Paris (2010) / Turtle Vetiver by Les Nez (2013) / Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir (2017).

DOMINIQUE ROPION - Kenzo Jungle by Kenzo (1996) / Alien by Mugler (2005) / Portrait of a Lady by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2010).

MAURICE ROUCEL - Tocade by Rochas (1994) / Insolence by Guerlain (2006) / Musc Ravageur by Editions de parfums Frédéric Malle (2000).

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What an honour for Nuit de Bakélite (2017) to be affiliated with: Fracas by Piguet (1948), Giorgio Berverly Hills (1981), Poison by Dior (1985), Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens (1998), Carnal Flower by Frédéric Malle (2000).

https://mudac.ch/

BEST OF 2017 by Colognoisseur

The Top 5 (Perfume of the Year Candidates) by Mark Benhke.

Including ...

"Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite - The creative direction of Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier matched with the vistuosity of perfumer Isabelle Doyen provided the best tuberose of 2017. Their choice to focus on the green stemmy quality by editing out the flower they found something within which reinvents tuberose".

http://colognoisseur.com/colognoisseur-2017-year-end-review-part-3-the-top-25-new-perfumes-of-the-year/

THE BEST OF SCENT 2017, by Cafleurebon.

Best perfume :

"Nuit de Bakélite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- in a year of many mediocre tuberoses, safe and screechy for the most part, Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and the magnificent Isabelle Doyen created a tuberose very different than any I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Nuit de Bakélite is a DARING perfume and unlike any tuberose I have smelled in a few years". - Michelyn Camen

Best Creative Director:

"Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier for Nuit de Bakélite. I really loved the obsessive interpretation of Tuberose Naomi and Renaud steered with Isabelle Doyen. I also like the connection with Louise Bourgeois and the total white Insomnia project". - Ermano Picco

http://www.cafleurebon.com/

A MOMENT IN TIME, PARIS

On December 13th, we were in Paris for a Jazz party organised by Nose for Naomi Goodsir Parfums. We were so happy & honoured to have all our friends & talented perfumers with us - Isabelle Doyen, Bertrand Duchaufour & Julien Rasquinet. The night ended in a restaurant, enjoying great laughs, conversations - a unique moment in time.

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https://nose.fr/

BERGAMOTTO & BENZOINO, Italy

 

NUIT DE BAKELITE (Isabelle Doyen 2017)

Nuit de Bakélite (by Isabelle Doyen), the new addition in Naomi Goodsir's already excellent line (website here),  is a “nature” tuberose, that is with no silicones, fluorescent neons, high heels and shiny lips and all the rest we are used to.

Nuit de Bakelite is simple. Linear. Like a perfect, white flower standing on a tall stem, wearing only its truth.

A green, vegetable, damp, slightly smoky fragrance, with a powerful sensuality deriving from being naked and exposed.

The green side of this flower is backed by a bouquet of galbanum, angelica, davana, violet leaves and karo karounde, a natural, green, lush accord with such a strong personality would do the fragrance alone. From this magnificent accord, tuberose emerges in all its raw grace, as a huge amethyst with incredible purple shades, brightening the dark of night with an iridescent glow emanating from the inside outward.

The support structure consists of iris, leather, styrax (benjoin), tobacco and guaiac wood. A warm, dry, balanced set that begins to emerge after an hour from spraying, to stay on the skin for many, many hours.

Neither male nor female, Nuit de Bakélite is a fragrance with a crazy diffusive power: it is able to create a huge scented bubble around those who wear it. A translucent bubble, indeed, inviting others to approach and make compliments (personally tested).

So far, Nuit de Bakélite is the only fragrance - along with the Perris extract – that respects the character of the true blossom. It has nothing to do with the plasticized, carnal, fluorescent, medicinal, or hyper sexy tuberose we have been used to for decades by Fracas, Criminelle, Carnal, and all the others, and I really liked that.

Nuit de Bakélite makes obvious that everyone has always given an interpretation of this flower, while this is a portrait from real, a 3D polaroid which so far, perhaps, no one had understood so deeply.

Article by Marika Vecchiattini.

http://bergamottoebenzoino.blogspot.fr/

GRAIN DE MUSC, Paris.

Article by Denyse Beaulieu. September 2017.

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Without Lenin, there would be no Chanel N°5.

The absurd thought occurred to me as I was reading China Miéville’s meticulously researched and brilliantly written October: The Story of the Russian Revolution. Conflating the Ten Days that Shook the World[i] with Ernest Beaux’s fifth proposal to Gabrielle Chanel may seem like a bit of a jump. But Beaux wouldn’t have immigrated to France if it hadn’t been for the Bolsheviks. And his contribution to perfumery was, if not an actual revolution, a definite game-changer (unlike the house’s latest offering). Playing with blotters and vials might seem like strumming the balalaika while the world burns, drowns and quakes (has anybody else who grew up during the Cold War been having atomic mushroom nightmares again?). For what it’s worth, this fall I’ll salute the 100th anniversary of Red October with the ten scents that are shaking my world these days.

Nuit de Bakélite

by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir

For all the delicate, poetic fragrances she composed for Annick Goutal, it’s easy to forget that Isabelle Doyen can also be a badass avant-gardist (as she demonstrates in her nearly impossible to find Les Nez creations). In Nuit de Bakélite, she turns the tuberose -- or rather, the “peduncle that connects the stem to the flower” -- into a mutant plant exuding radioactive sap; a scent-track for Day of the Triffids. Milky-thick at the heart, day-glo green at the edges with an opalescent splash of iris, this non-linear composition has one of the most distinctive signatures I’ve smelled of late. 

http://graindemusc.blogspot.fr/

NUIT DE BAKÉLITE by Isabelle Doyen

« Nuit de Bakélite evokes to me, a tuberose sap, peeled tuberose, tuberose in a cage made of green and leather, a focus on the small peduncle that connects the flower to the stem, the sound of plastic when several stalks of tuberose tangle, the wild majesty of the Persian tuberose ». Isabelle Doyen, perfumer. Interview Nose Paris.

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http://nose.fr/fr/magazine/interview/nez-a-nez

ISABELLE DOYEN, Milan

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Isabelle Doyen is a graduate from the renowned ISIPCA, Paris. Today, she is a part time teacher there, sharing her extensive knowledge of fine perfumery. Outstanding students Francis Kurkdjian & Mathilde Laurent are graduates of her class. 

The rest of Isabelle’s time is devoted to her perfume creation company Aromatique Majeur. Since the 1980's, Isabelle has been the ‘in house’ perfumer for Annick Goutal where with Annick, she co-signed many of Goutal’s perfumes. With Camille Goutal, Isabelle continues to create for the Goutal brand. 

Isabelle was one of the very first independent master noses, who has gained rare distinguished respect from her fellow peers as a talented artist expressing her creativity through fine perfumery. She considers fragrance compositions as a universal language - deeply personal, intimate & secret. Isabelle is a friend, who Renaud has known & followed for 13 years. Naomi & Renaud had always dreamed of working with Isabelle well before the creation of their premier fragrances. From Isabelle’s side, she viewed Naomi as a source of inspiration. So through a close collaborative vision ‘ Nuit de Bakélite ’ was born.

Photo by Evgeniya Chudakova in Naomi Goodsir Parfums, "Insomnia" suite, in Milan 2017