COOL TM was created as an independent, daring, resolutely modern and subversive field of expression, in the image of a world in search of meaning and ethics.
Each piece is a tribute, the desire to transcribe the emotion that transports us when we think of free personalities. Question the beautiful, the genre, the normal, the bizarre, the extravagant, COOL TM is a refuge for those who dare colors, overlays, shiny and truthful pieces.
COOL TM was meant to evoke a jovial and happy debauchery as a celebration of life. An ode to radical, raw and assumed freedom, with rebellious and lascivious silhouettes where men are sensitive, women are strong and free. We are all equal.
Merging rebellion and romance, punk and bohemia, vintage and avant-garde, COOL TM’s message is modern,subversive, and yet universal. Blurring gender lines and staunchly promoting diversity the brand holds up a mirror to a society undergoing major changes.
Thank you to NOSE PARIS & COOL T.M to have associated Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir to the event at Galerie Vivienne on June 23rd , 2021 in Paris, according to Spring/Summer 2022 catwalk.
The endless gray stretch of quarantine has warped time into units previously unknown to me, measuring hours by phantom presences. Perfume—a closetful of it, so many bottles and vials that I can barely shut the door, a reminder of past travels and smiles—has been a faithful companion during this disembodying hover-year. Its mirror: the pulled-down shades and soft dark envelopment of watching films, light flickering off a beat-up laptop, offering respite and another layer of other—real time—pass and melt. In both, vaporous, fickle media, ever-changing, light particles dancing off my face and skin, I surrender myself to their own inner workings, worlds, and pathways—they give my rolling, fretful, nearly-always-bursting-with-question-marks mind a chance to stop, collect itself, drift, play.
Where can my physical body go if it is locked indoors? I can transfer and inhabit, nibble, feed off, empathize, and fall in love with actors and scents, a new one a day, according to my mood. In losing yourself, you get re-embodied. My heart beats with different screens, varied scents. Here is a scattering of stars, ones who have nurtured me and provided escape and pleasure during this year, individualistic women who shine gemlike, inspire and dazzle, with fragrances dreamed and real paired with them.
Collage by Joy Matashi. Fashion Editor : Jared Ellner. Article by KASHINA, NOV. 2020
PEARL CHANG WOULD LOVE THE NOTES OF AMBER IN NUIT DE BAKÉLITE BY NAOMI GOODSIR, ENSCONCED BY THIS DRAMATIC, JEWEL-ENCRUSTED RING BY VALENTINO GARAVANI. SAIRA BANU SUMMONS ADAMEKU BY DI SER, SCENTED WITH MEDICINAL MUSKDANA AND CANTALOUPE, AND THIS EMERALD-EYED, ONYX-NOSED PANTHER RING BY CARTIER.TOP PEARL CHANG IN 'THE SHADOW CHASER' (1973), 'WOLF DEVIL WOMAN' (1982), 'THE WAR OF THE BOUNDARY' (1978) COURTESY OF HONG-KONG MOVIE DATABASE. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ALAMY.
PEARL CHANG
The Taiwanese martial arts supernova behind the unclassifiable and fantastical Wolf Devil Woman (1982), Pearl Chang was a multi-talented director, writer, producer, star—often all at once. Her extreme energy spiraled in all directions. She tore through her kung fu epics with whirlwind power and lightning-bolt editing, whiplash-inducing battles fought in outrageous jeweled and tasseled headdresses, poles and swords flying through the air. Australian designer Naomi Goodsir has created perfumes as unpredictable, illogical, and daredevil as Pearl—the electric, forked-tongue Nuit de Bakélite, with its livid, shape-shifting, furious green tuberose that lasts for days on the skin. And Bois d’Ascèse and its soilish, dampened-ash scent of dripping caverns, unearthed pu’er tea, gnarled roots, just-plucked feathers with flesh still attached, and spat-out wine. They’re both visceral, wildly inventive scents fit for the untetherable force of nature that is Pearl.
Sindroms is a journal of monochrome states of mind, published in print biannually. Curating its content based on specific colours, it investigates them across culture and immerses its readers in the feelings and moods evoked by each colour.
Nuit de Bakélite by perfumer Isabelle Doyen is happy to be part of this evergreen sindrom - Design by Studio Goodsir. Photo by Jean-Michel Sordello
VOGUE US, August 2020 issue. Cover by photographer Annie Leibovitz, model Simone Biles.
Crown flutters with butterflies, a handmade piece designed for the shoot by Naomi Goodsir &commissioned by the great Amanda Harlech (Fashion Editor/Stylist). Photographer Autumn de Wilde who is also the Director of EMMA, a movie adapted from Jane Austen’s novel. Actress Tanya Reynolds is wearing the crown.
An exhibition curated by MUDAC Lausanne. “The Bird Hat” & “The Bones”, two pieces by Naomi Goodsir feature in the exhibition, among pieces by designers Marteen Baas, Studio Drift, Verhoeven Twins, Studio Job, Vincent Dubourg, Campana Brothers, Nendo & artist Mona Hatoum.
The MUDAC - Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts, Lausanne (Switzerland), pays tribute to the maison Gaudard by offering for three months, a rich selection of objects and creations EXTRA-ORDINARY and (almost functional). Excessive, tiny, playful, bestial, vegetable, subtle, disturbing or even wonderful pieces from contemporary designers, artists and creators. We are honoured to have two pieces featuring in this exhibition.
The Palais Galliera presents "Back Side / Fashion from Behind", an off-site exhibition at the Musée Bourdelle which focuses on clothing seen from behind.
In a society that is obsessed with people’s faces, "Back Side / Fashion from Behind" is an original and unexpected theme. By addressing our body’s relationship to clothing from a social and psychological point of view, the exhibition questions the perception we have of our own and other people’s backs.
Rick Owens
Alaia
Antoine Bourdelle atelier
Comme des Garçons
Alexander McQueen
by Antoine Bourdelle
Martine Sitbon
Scale model of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées by Antoine Bourdelle
With Bourdelle's 19th century studios and Christian de Portzamparc's modern extension from 1992, the Musée Bourdelle offers to its visitors a unique range of exhibition areas, along with welcoming gardens that are ideal for a relaxing stroll at the heart of the Montparnasse district.
From the intimacy of Bourdelle's apartment, where the artist worked, to the immensity of the Great Hall full of plaster casts bathed in soft light, visitors are free to follow their own path among the sculptor's work.
With Rodin and the sculptor Desbois, Antoine Bourdelle founded a free sculpture school in Montparnasse. In his attempt to find his own way, Bourdelle freed himself from the style of Rodin. His Tête d'Apollon (Head of Apollo) which he began that year, shows a different way of thinking : "I broke away from the accidental, in search of the permanent plane" (Bourdelle, Ecrits sur l'art et sur la vie - Writings on Art and Life).
The decade of 1919-1929 proved a time of great official commissions : La Vierge à l'offrande (The Virgin of the offering) (1919-1923) erected in Alsace and La France (France) (1925) in front of the Grand Palais for the Decorative Arts Exhibition. The Monument au général Alvéar (Monument to general Alvear) was inaugurated in Buenos Aires in 1926, and the Monument à Adam Mickiewic (Monument to Adam Mickiewic) in Paris, on 28 April 1929.
MOPA (Museum of Perfume Art) by Crème de la Crème - Haute Parfumerie, exhibition “Forbidden Ingredients” during ARTVILNIUS’19 - International Contemporary Art Fair in Vilnius, Lithuania.
“Choker” fashion accessory by Naomi Goodsir.Photos by Donatas Zazirkas.
Made in France by one of the last hat manufacturers labeled ‘Living Heritage Companies (EPV)’. The company takes care of all the manufacturing steps from the Australian Merino wool bundle recognized for its exceptional qualities, to the molding of the hat including the felt cone.
For “Képi" - inspired by a military hat from the 1900’s, Naomi Goodsir first conceived by hand, a felt shape which was then used to make a custom made hat block.
WHEN THE ICONIC TEMPLE OF PARISIAN NOCTURNAL LIFE, NOW A LUXURY BOUTIQUE-HOTEL MET AN ATYPICAL CREATOR, THE RESULT IS A ‘CHIC-ROCK HAT’ ISSUED FROM FRENCH & DOWN UNDER SAVOIR-FAIRE.
A new take on an emblematic ‘pièce de mode’, a cape by Naomi Goodsir for Amanda Harlech & Tim Walker (Vogue Italia Sept.issue 2018). Hand Stitched iridescent green elytra (in black it works as well).
SOMETIMES, LIFE GIVES YOU A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO CREATE A CUSTOM MADE PIECE FOR SOME INCREDIBLY TALENTED ARTISTS IE: TIM WALKER (PHOTOGRAPHER) & AMANDA HARLECH (STYLIST). NOT EVEN A HAT, BUT A CAPE STITCHED WITH BEETLE WINGS. THANK YOU TIM & AMANDA- BEAUTIFUL!
A real pioneer, Yves Saint Laurent was the only fashion designer of his generation to systematically archive his work, beginning with the founding of the couture house. The heritage safeguarded by the foundation is a treasure-trove allowing us to discover the creative universe of Yves Saint Laurent.
The French architectural firm, founded and headed by Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty. They have overseen numerous residential and public projects in Morocco, Great Britain and the United States. While studying the couturier’s archives, Studio KO became intrigued by the duality between curved and straight lines, and between loose and precise approaches to cutting fabric. The facade of the building appears as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric. As with the lining of a couture jacket, the interior is radically different: velvety, smooth and radiant.
The world acclaimed graphic designer, Jean-Marie Mauron known as "Cassandre" (1901 - 1968) designed the emblematic logo YSL.
A dear friend & textile artisan took me to an exhibition in Paris at The Chapelle Expiatoire. It was amazing to discover such a talented textile artist as Simone Pheulpin.
Born in 1941, Simone Pheulpin is a French textile sculptor who lives and works in the Vosges. Her works are the result of an instinctive expression that uses both the suppleness and firmness of an untreated, natural material, a simple non-bleached cotton. From her fabric strips and thousands of pins, a veritable vocabulary of forms and shapes with an organic allure, a supernatural world where surprising rocks and the seabed take form, sprung from her spirit and guided by her hands.
Simone Pheulpin was selected for Craft Prize 2018 of the Foundation Loewe.She's the only french artist on the list of 30 finalists from 86 countries on 5 continents.
Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949) was the son of the Spanish painter Mariano Fortuny y Marsal (1838-1874) and, like his father, he started out as a painter. He moved to Venice in 1888 and his name has always been associated with that city. His highly eclectic tastes encompassed engraving, photography, furniture and lighting design, as well as stage design and stage lighting. In 1906, he turned his attentions to fabrics, with his “Knossos scarf” made of silk, printed with motifs inspired by Kamares pottery from the Minoan period. His dress designs liberated the female form. He reinterpreted the styles and motifs of Ancient Greece, the Middle-Ages and the Renaissance, and he created timeless, unwaisted pieces with soft, straight-hanging lines.
A kind of "trompe-l'oeil". Naomi's favorite crocodile bowler hat perched on her trusty riding boot. 1930's mannequin head. Studio montage. Photo by Mr R.
On Tuesday, June 13th, 2017, we were invited to the opening day of the 92nd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Il Museo Effimero della Moda (The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion), produced by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in collaboration with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Palais Galliera. It was inaugurated in the spaces of the Galleria del Costume of Palazzo Pitti. The exhibition is the second edition in a three-year program promoted by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana and the Gallerie degli Uffizi and is curated by Olivier Saillard. It will be open until October 22nd, 2017.
'The clothes, punctuating each room’s theme, were brought back to light thanks to the wonderful work done by the restorers of the Galleria del Costume and the Palais Gallieria. They were created by the world’s most prestigious dressmakers and fashion ateliers, from Florence to Rome, Milan, Paris and New York, including the House of Worth; Mariano Fortuny Venice; Rosa Genoni; Atelier Emilio Schubert, Rome; Roberto Capucci, Maison Vionnet; Irene Galitzine, Rome; Elsa Schiaparelli; Jole Veneziani; Biki, Maison romana d'alta moda Carosa, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix.'
'Contemporary fashions are also well represented with recent acquisitions by the Palais Galliera, shown for the first time here in Florence, and some items from the Palazzo Pitti collection. And the show includes a foray into the world of today’s fashions with selections from the latest collections by Gucci, Margiela, Bless, Fendi, Armani, Valentino, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano and Lanvin.'
Credits: Alessandro Ciampi.
Drinks followed afterwards viewing Boboli Gardens. An incredibly inspiring exhibition ...
