fashion

Fashion, magazine, Parfums, press

GARAGE MAGAZINE ISSUE 19, USA

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The endless gray stretch of quarantine has warped time into units previously unknown to me, measuring hours by phantom presences. Perfume—a closetful of it, so many bottles and vials that I can barely shut the door, a reminder of past travels and smiles—has been a faithful companion during this disembodying hover-year. Its mirror: the pulled-down shades and soft dark envelopment of watching films, light flickering off a beat-up laptop, offering respite and another layer of other—real time—pass and melt. In both, vaporous, fickle media, ever-changing, light particles dancing off my face and skin, I surrender myself to their own inner workings, worlds, and pathways—they give my rolling, fretful, nearly-always-bursting-with-question-marks mind a chance to stop, collect itself, drift, play. 

Where can my physical body go if it is locked indoors? I can transfer and inhabit, nibble, feed off, empathize, and fall in love with actors and scents, a new one a day, according to my mood. In losing yourself, you get re-embodied. My heart beats with different screens, varied scents. Here is a scattering of stars, ones who have nurtured me and provided escape and pleasure during this year, individualistic women who shine gemlike, inspire and dazzle, with fragrances dreamed and real paired with them.

Collage by Joy Matashi. Fashion Editor : Jared Ellner. Article by KASHINA, NOV. 2020

PEARL CHANG WOULD LOVE THE NOTES OF AMBER IN NUIT DE BAKÉLITE BY NAOMI GOODSIR, ENSCONCED BY THIS DRAMATIC, JEWEL-ENCRUSTED RING BY VALENTINO GARAVANI. SAIRA BANU SUMMONS ADAMEKU BY DI SER, SCENTED WITH MEDICINAL MUSKDANA AND CANTALOUPE, AND THIS EMERALD-EYED, ONYX-NOSED PANTHER RING BY CARTIER.TOP PEARL CHANG IN 'THE SHADOW CHASER' (1973), 'WOLF DEVIL WOMAN' (1982), 'THE WAR OF THE BOUNDARY' (1978) COURTESY OF HONG-KONG MOVIE DATABASE. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF ALAMY.

PEARL CHANG 

The Taiwanese martial arts supernova behind the unclassifiable and fantastical Wolf Devil Woman (1982), Pearl Chang was a multi-talented director, writer, producer, star—often all at once. Her extreme energy spiraled in all directions. She tore through her kung fu epics with whirlwind power and lightning-bolt editing, whiplash-inducing battles fought in outrageous jeweled and tasseled headdresses, poles and swords flying through the air. Australian designer Naomi Goodsir has created perfumes as unpredictable, illogical, and daredevil as Pearl—the electric, forked-tongue Nuit de Bakélite, with its livid, shape-shifting, furious green tuberose that lasts for days on the skin. And Bois d’Ascèse and its soilish, dampened-ash scent of dripping caverns, unearthed pu’er tea, gnarled roots, just-plucked feathers with flesh still attached, and spat-out wine. They’re both visceral, wildly inventive scents fit for the untetherable force of nature that is Pearl.

GARAGE MAGAZINE, full article

Art, design, Fashion, inspiration, magazine, Nuit de Bakélite, Press

SINDROMS JOURNAL - SHADES OF GREEN


Sindroms is a journal of monochrome states of mind, published in print biannually. Curating its content based on specific colours, it investigates them across culture and immerses its readers in the feelings and moods evoked by each colour.

Nuit de Bakélite by perfumer Isabelle Doyen is happy to be part of this evergreen sindrom - Design by Studio Goodsir. Photo by Jean-Michel Sordello

SINDROMS JOURNAL

Art, design, Event, Exhibitions, Fashion

EXTRA-ORDINARY EXHIBITION AT THE MUDAC, LAUSANNE

The MUDAC - Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts, Lausanne (Switzerland), pays tribute to the maison Gaudard by offering for three months, a rich selection of objects and creations EXTRA-ORDINARY and (almost functional). Excessive, tiny, playful, bestial, vegetable, subtle, disturbing or even wonderful pieces from contemporary designers, artists and creators. We are honoured to have two pieces featuring in this exhibition.

From February 26th to June 1st, 2020.

MUDAC

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels

EN PASSANT PAR ... YVES SAINT LAURENT MUSEUM, MARRAKECH

A real pioneer, Yves Saint Laurent was the only fashion designer of his generation to systematically archive his work, beginning with the founding of the couture house. The heritage safeguarded by the foundation is a treasure-trove allowing us to discover the creative universe of Yves Saint Laurent.

https://www.museeyslmarrakech.com/

The French architectural firm, founded and headed by Karl Fournier and Olivier Marty. They have overseen numerous residential and public projects in Morocco, Great Britain and the United States. While studying the couturier’s archives, Studio KO became intrigued by the duality between curved and straight lines, and between loose and precise approaches to cutting fabric. The facade of the building appears as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric. As with the lining of a couture jacket, the interior is radically different: velvety, smooth and radiant.

The world acclaimed graphic designer, Jean-Marie Mauron known as "Cassandre" (1901 - 1968) designed the emblematic logo YSL.

Photos by Mr R.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration

FORTUNY AT PALAIS GALLIERA, PARIS

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A SPANIARD IN VENICE

Mariano Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949) was the son of the Spanish painter Mariano Fortuny y Marsal (1838-1874) and, like his father, he started out as a painter. He moved to Venice in 1888 and his name has always been associated with that city. His highly eclectic tastes encompassed engraving, photography, furniture and lighting design, as well as stage design and stage lighting. In 1906, he turned his attentions to fabrics, with his “Knossos scarf” made of silk, printed with motifs inspired by Kamares pottery from the Minoan period. His dress designs liberated the female form. He reinterpreted the styles and motifs of Ancient Greece, the Middle-Ages and the Renaissance, and he created timeless, unwaisted pieces with soft, straight-hanging lines.

http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion, inspiration, Travels

ITEMS : IS FASHION MODERN?

An exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art, NYC till January 28th, 2018. https://www.moma.org/

Thierry Mugler "Little Black Dress", 1981.

Art, Exhibitions, Fashion

EXHIBITION AT PALAZZO PITTI, Florence - Italy

On Tuesday, June 13th, 2017, we were invited to the opening day of the 92nd edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, Il Museo Effimero della Moda (The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion), produced by the Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in collaboration with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the Palais Galliera. It was inaugurated in the spaces of the Galleria del Costume of Palazzo Pitti. The exhibition is the second edition in a three-year program promoted by the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana and the Gallerie degli Uffizi and is curated by Olivier Saillard. It will be open until October 22nd, 2017.

'The clothes, punctuating each room’s theme, were brought back to light thanks to the wonderful work done by the restorers of the Galleria del Costume and the Palais Gallieria. They were created by the world’s most prestigious dressmakers and fashion ateliers, from Florence to Rome, Milan, Paris and New York, including the House of Worth; Mariano Fortuny Venice; Rosa Genoni; Atelier Emilio Schubert, Rome; Roberto Capucci, Maison Vionnet; Irene Galitzine, Rome; Elsa Schiaparelli; Jole Veneziani; Biki, Maison romana d'alta moda Carosa, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix.'

'Contemporary fashions are also well represented with recent acquisitions by the Palais Galliera, shown for the first time here in Florence, and some items from the Palazzo Pitti collection. And the show includes a foray into the world of today’s fashions with selections from the latest collections by Gucci, Margiela, Bless, Fendi, Armani, Valentino, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, John Galliano and Lanvin.'

Credits: Alessandro Ciampi.

Drinks followed afterwards viewing Boboli Gardens. An incredibly inspiring exhibition ...

Fashion, Art

CREATIVE MINDS, Conny Groenewegen

"Fashion Machine" is an art performance presented at the Dutch ambassador's house in Paris, in September 2016. Made of 2.000 fleece sweaters, each systematically cut in 14m stripes and knitted - on antic wooden knitting machines - into more special textile objects. This artistic installation was made for (took place initially at) Temporary Fashion Museum in Rotterdam.

Conny Groenewegen based her spatial intervention for the exhibition Fashion Data on a typical leftover product of the fast fashion industry: the fleece sweater. Originally made from another industrial relic, the PET bottle, the fleece sweater is certainly not the most adventurous fashion item that ends up in the collection bins for used clothing. However, it can be found there in massive amounts and the product is actually hardly suitable for re-sale in thrift stores or the markets of Eastern Europe, Africa and India.

For the installation 'Fashion Machine', countless fleece sweaters were cut up and the polyethylene yarn put on spools again. The exhibition space introduces a kind of sweatshop for the processing of these yarns, which are reworked into flags and mattresses. The installation makes the production mechanism and scale of the fast fashion industry tangible, while the banal material takes on a new shape and an almost activist expression on the spot.

www.http://tijdelijkmodemuseum.hetnieuweinstituut.nl

www.connygroenewegen.nl

Collaborations

COLLABORATION NOSE X NAOMI GOODSIR

 A CONTEMPORARY INTERPRETATION OF "THE PERFUMER'S ATTIRE" OF 1697.

  The 17th century engravings & prints representing the crafts & arts of their era let us contextualise the universe that existed at the time. The “Habit de Perfumeur”, an enigmatic representation well known in the closed circle of perfumers, was initially engraved by Gerrit Valck & subsequently reproduced by Nicolas de L’Armessin in 1697. In this epitomisation of the perfumer’s attire we see raw materials & essences of all sorts unveiled; orange blossom & the Queen of Hungary’s flowers, wax & leathers from Spain plus other materials such as tobacco, cedar et cetera. The perfumer’s tools are also depicted, including an incense burner disguised as a hat with scented fans carried on the shoulders. The finished products are equally presented in the image: Cyprus powder, pomades from Rome & Florence, soaps from Naples & Boulogne, pastilles & lozenges, as well as various scented waters (Eau d’Ange, Eau de Cordoue, Eau de Mille-Fleurs, Carmelite water).

With Nose, we conceived a modern-day attire for the globe travelling perfumer - in search of new components for their olfactive collection. 

3 ELEMENT ATTIRE:

Naomi created a calf leather & canvas apron with hand stitched alligator detailing. This apron can hold over 300 perfume samples. For transporting the apron a modern take of a doctors bag was designed - made from buffalo leather, canvas & alligator. To top it off, Naomi handmade/hand stitched a modern style bowler hat from loden green felt with a black vintage feather interest.