STAND N°19 "Unconventional" area.
Parfums
BEHIND THE DOORS OF ... Martin Patrick 3, Minneapolis, USA
Our perfumes just landed at MP3 store, dedicated to making men look and feel their best, at home or around town. A collection of mixes furniture, apparel, apothecary, and other design elements in one attractive space.
212 Third Avenue North, Suite 106, Minneapolis, MN 55401, USA. www.martinpatrick3.com
BEHIND THE DOORS OF ... G&B Negozio, Flero - Italy
A beautiful address in Flero, Italy, where to find our perfumes and a haven for fashion.
Via Mazzini 18/18a, Flero - 25020 - Brescia (IT) - https://www.gebnegozionline.com
ELLE CROATIA, Nuit de Bakélite
May 2017 issue, by Ivo Parac.
SHADOWS, BOIS d'ASCESE
Photos by Mr R.
CAFLEUREBON, USA
Best Fragrance: NUIT de Bakelite (Naomi Goodsir, Renaud Coutaudier and Isabelle Doyen)- Naomi Goodsir Parfums had a separate suite at the posh Principe di Savoia . All was white, draped and minimalist in contrast with the lush backdrop of the Garden of Eden theme at the Esxence main hall. The avant-garde accessory designer Naomi Goodsir and partner in perfumery, Rene Coutaudier presented NUIT de BAKELITE composed by master perfumer Isabelle Doyen, (who most of our readers know from her work with Annick Goutal). One of the most talented perfumers and teachers on the planet, you might be familiar with a different side of her oeuvre;for the Swiss company LesNez. Ahead of her time, I first became familiar with her unconventional daring side in LesNez Turtle Project, threefragrances that showed three very different aspects of vetiver: woody, green and smoky. I mention this because NUIT de Bakelite is a DARING perfume and unlike anything I have smelled in many years.
First, the back story. Renaud met Isabelle 13 years ago, they stayed in touch. Four years ago, Naomi Goodsir shared her love of vintage 1930s bakelite jewelry with Isabelle. Then the process; mod after mod until everyone agreed “this is it”
Master Perfumer Isabelle Doyen and yours truly
I am not usually a fan of tuberose–centric fragrances, but NUIT de BAKELITE is unlike any tuberose I have encountered. It is the bud before the flower opens and becomes the heady queen of the night. It is the roots, the seed, grown in a bio-sphere in another galaxy. My nose to my wrist, I smell fractured shards of green tuberose, textured and deconstructed. Experimental but classically constructed, with a direct nod to vintage scents as if Fracas had an eccentric distant cousin. My skin faintly picked up the plastic of the bakelite; most certainly others will, and also find it very green. The Karo Karounde, a flowering shrub from Africa which has been compared to jasmine adds a 3-d quality to the entire composition and along with the davana was the most prominent on my skin. The longevity was overnight and sillage excellent. Top Notes: galbanum, saffron, angelica root; Heart Notes: Indian Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, davana; Base notes: Karo Karounde, Styrax, Birch tar, Cade, labdanum and musk.
Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief - http://www.cafleurebon.com/
INTERVIEW NOUVELLE FACTORY, Italy
ISABELLE DOYEN, Milan
Isabelle Doyen is a graduate from the renowned ISIPCA, Paris. Today, she is a part time teacher there, sharing her extensive knowledge of fine perfumery. Outstanding students Francis Kurkdjian & Mathilde Laurent are graduates of her class.
The rest of Isabelle’s time is devoted to her perfume creation company Aromatique Majeur. Since the 1980's, Isabelle has been the ‘in house’ perfumer for Annick Goutal where with Annick, she co-signed many of Goutal’s perfumes. With Camille Goutal, Isabelle continues to create for the Goutal brand.
Isabelle was one of the very first independent master noses, who has gained rare distinguished respect from her fellow peers as a talented artist expressing her creativity through fine perfumery. She considers fragrance compositions as a universal language - deeply personal, intimate & secret. Isabelle is a friend, who Renaud has known & followed for 13 years. Naomi & Renaud had always dreamed of working with Isabelle well before the creation of their premier fragrances. From Isabelle’s side, she viewed Naomi as a source of inspiration. So through a close collaborative vision ‘ Nuit de Bakélite ’ was born.
Photo by Evgeniya Chudakova in Naomi Goodsir Parfums, "Insomnia" suite, in Milan 2017
INSOMNIA, Milan - Italy
"Insomnia" installation, Hotel Principe Di Savoia in Milan, 26th March 2017 / 5.00AM
Photos by Mr R
NUIT DE BAKELITE, artistic selection process
Photos by Mr R
PRIVATE EVENT, Milan - Italy
BEHIND THE DOORS OF .... Elu, Los Angeles & San Francisco
élu by Cristina Nicoletti is a multi-channel retail luxury goods company.
The atmosphere and concept of the boutiques focuses on artisanal, unique,
timeless yet modern objects of beauty as we strive to continue to source talented and interesting designers.
. 8575 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood, CA90069
. 3091 Sacramento Street, San Francisco, CA94115
BEHIND THE DOORS OF ... Crème de la Crème, Lithuania
Crème de la Crème is a cult chain of already 6 haute parfumerie boutiques in Vilnius, Kaunas and Klaipėda, the major cities of Lithuania, as well as Tallinn, Estonia. Crème de la Crème interior designs are featured in the world’s leading publications, while our innovative and conceptual approach to beauty is known well beyond our home country. www.cremedelacreme.lt
Art, Displays, Exhibitions, Parfums
TRANOI PARFUMS, Paris
Our display at Tranoi Parfums, January 2017, in Paris. Part of the installation "Souvenir du Monde Flottant, Iris Cendré (Goodsir)", 2015. Graphite on paper by Jean-Philippe Roubaud. Pictures by Stefan Kraus & Mr R.
SELVEDGE RUN, Berlin
Selvedge Run N°04, Berlin, Germany, 14/19th January 2017. www.selvedgerun.com
BOIS D'ASCESE by Juraj Sotosek Rihtarec
'Bois d'Ascèse is definitively one of the scents where you can easily guess what "niche perfume" really is. There is no compromise in this composition of burned wood, incense, whisky, cinnamon, amber, cistus, labdanum. Even for me, who smelled hundreds of perfumes, makes me feel unique, one of a kind. Perfect creation!'
A WINDOW IN ... Ukraine
The "finger up the nose" travels to Aromateque Concept Store, in Dnipropetrovsk.
BEHIND THE DOORS OF... Interno B 197, Italy
"Interno B 197 was born in Reggio Emilia in 2006 with a selection of accessories and gifts, but little clothing. With the passing of time Luca and Gabriele, the owners, decided to focus more on fashion, becoming a reference point for research, working with brands such as Comme des Garçons, Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens".
Via luciano fornaciari, 1. Reggio Emilia. www.internob197.it
WOOD, shades of colour
Pictures by Mr R.